Countryside & Small Stock Journal March/April 2017 issue is NOW AVAILABLE! Subscribe today.

+ Starting Off Right With Chickens — If you plan on raising chickens on your homestead, there are a few things to know before buying baby chicks. Regardless of whether you are a suburban poultry keeper or a seasoned farmer, chickens are a wonderful addition to any homestead. A healthy and productive flock is directly related to the care that they receive. Learn about chicken breeds, chicken coop designs, waterers, feed, and much more!

+How to Keep Your Hens Happy — It’s not rocket science, but knowing a few tricks can help your chickens stay happy and productive. Keeping your hens happy is easy once you know what motivates their behavior. Nearly all of a chicken’s activities are motivated by three basic needs: to get enough to eat, to avoid being eaten, and to make more chickens. Confined chickens often develop a fourth need—to alleviate boredom—that may result when one or more of the three basic needs is not adequately met.

In this Issue:

+ Don’t Wait on Winter Waning— There are several crops you can start today in your garden or field.

+ pH: What’s the Big Deal? — Knowing your soil’s pH level will help you determine what to grow.

+ A Guide to Using Steam Canners — This century-old practice is still effective if you know the fundamentals.

+ Building a Portable Chicken Coop — Step-by-step instructions for building your own chicken tractor.

+ Adding a Metal Roof — When it’s time to replace your roof, metal can often be the most affordable and effective option.

+ Property Site Planning Around the Sun — Knowing which way to build your home or buildings can save you big on energy costs.

+ Surviving Spring Power Outages — It’s all fun and games until the power goes out and you need emergency essentials and procedures. What you need to know to stay safe.

+ Tips For Buying a Dairy Goat — A few rules to know before you invest in your first dairy goat.

+ Let’s Talk About Losing Bees — Beekeepers around the world are experiencing more loss than usual, and it can be hard to talk about.

Don’t Miss These Great Features and More:  

Find a Sweet Spot for Growing Eggplants

Ticked Off

Travel: Tunisia’s Paradise

Homesteading Hack #4: Keeping Flies Away

Basics of Photographing Your Homestead

My Heiland Coos

A Goat Birthing Kit For Your Homestead

Key Words in the Country

We Prepare, But We Are Not Preppers

Book Review: Gardening for Butterflies

Also in This Issue:

Capture Your Countryside — March/April 2017

From Countryside Editor Ryan Slabaugh — March/April 2017

Countryside Conversation & Feedback — March/April 2017

Countryside Cookbook 101/2

Countryside Back Issues Available

Countryside and Small Stock Journal is more than a homesteading magazine, it’s a network where people who are homesteading today share a variety of experiences and ideas about simple homesteading. In every issue, you’ll learn about practical solutions for growing and preserving your own food, raising chickens and small livestock, and managing a thriving homestead in a rural or urban setting.

Never miss another great issue with practical tips on homesteading today! Subscribe to Countryside and Small Stock Journal today.

The post How to Getting Started Raising Chickens appeared first on Countryside Network.

It’s hard to know what to say when you’re writing your first editor’s letter, so I think I’ll start with a simple “hi.” I feel like I know so many of you already since I come to the magazine from the digital side of things where I worked with a great team of writers to bring you daily online posts at countrysidenetwork.com.

Let me take a minute to introduce myself. First and foremost, I have a wonderful husband and two daughters and we live on a beautiful hillside near the Ohio River. I’ve been raising backyard chickens for years. My flock currently consists of two roosters, Buff Brahmas, Speckled Sussex, Easter Eggers, Black Australorps, Brown Leghorns, a New Hampshire and a Buff Orpington.

My flock free ranges daily in a fenced-in area of our property. They roam my gardens and get lots of attention from everyone in the family. We don’t eat our chickens since they all have names and personalities of their own. Instead, we enjoy their delicious eggs.

For a few years, I’ve worked with Ron Kean answering Ask the Expert questions for the magazine. Over that time, I noticed many of the questions had similar origins that aren’t covered in many other places. So, I’m proud to say I’ve written a book called Backyard Chickens: Beyond the Basics (Voyageur Press, 2017). My book covers many of those questions and addresses topics like expanding your flock, chicken behavior, coping with the seasons and more. It’s in pre-sale now and will be out in May.

Enough about me! This issue is chock-full of must-know information about getting baby chickens and raising them properly. From choosing how to get your chicks, proper temperatures, feeding, and vaccinations, we’ve got you covered on the journey from the brooder to the coop.

In this issue, you’ll probably notice ties to our Backyard Poultry social media platforms like Instagram and Facebook. Our photo album now includes pictures from our online fans. So, make sure to follow us and share your flock photos. You’ll also notice our kid’s section has been upgraded for the whole family to enjoy. Don’t forget to complete the coloring page and send us a picture. We may just print it in the next issue!

All these changes are exciting, but what hasn’t changed is our commitment to bringing you the information you need for a healthy and happy flock. I look forward to getting to know you and your flocks!

The post Saying “Hi” – Editor’s Letter April/May 2017 appeared first on Countryside Network.

Greetings and Salutations!

Hi everyone! It’s certainly nice to meet all of you! I look forward to getting to know you better over the coming issues, but in the meantime, I thought I’d take a minute and introduce myself.

First and foremost, I’m a wife and mother of two girls. We live on more than 12 acres near the Ohio River. My acreage is mostly wooded and I love it. Nature and gardening have been lifelong passions of mine, so the wooded lot affords wildlife and bird watching opportunities galore. We’ve got a mom and her triplet does that hang out on our driveway. Our resident turkeys are loud and hilarious to watch. And, if I’m lucky, sometimes we’ll hear our barred owls calling to each other as I’m getting the girls into the car for school.

In addition to lots of natural habitat, my homestead backyard hosts my flock of chickens. I’ve got two mixed breed roosters along with some Buff Brahmas, Speckled Sussex, Black Australorps, Easter Eggers, Brown Leghorns, a New Hampshire and a Buff Orpington.

I am also a published author with my first book Backyard Chickens: Beyond the Basics (Voyageur Press, 2017) in pre-sale now and officially in stores May 1, 2017. Backyard Chickens: Beyond the Basics explores the realities of raising a flock for eggs. From odd eggs and molting to chicken behavior, feeding and preparing for the seasons, my book focuses on many subjects that aren’t covered in beginner books.

But, enough about me. This issue is jam packed with information and how-to articles for everyone! To name a few, you’ll find a wonderful spread on cheese-making. From easy mozzarella to hard cheeses and the best supplies, you’ll find practical advice for novices and experienced cheesemakers alike. You’ll also find an informative section on how dairy farms operate and alternative dairy farms utilizing goats and sheep. Plus, learn the best tools and procedures for digging holes on the homestead and much more.

I hope you enjoy this issue enough to keep it around for reference in the future. Happy reading!

The post Editor’s Letter – May/June 2017 appeared first on Countryside Network.

What is the best bedding for chickens won’t be the only question you have as you set up your first brooder. As you await the arrival of your new chicks, you will most likely be researching what you will need. Raising chickens for eggs is not that complicated. You will need to provide the chickens with food, water, and shelter. Those are the basics requirements. Buying the equipment to raise chickens for eggs can be confusing. Should you buy the metal or the plastic water fount? How much food do I need the feeder to hold? How big does my brooder and later the coop need to be? Let’s take a look at each stage of development and type of equipment needed.

The beginner’s equipment for raising chickens for eggs can be very simple. There are products on the market that cost a good deal and also do the job, but the main goals are to keep the chicks warm, dry, watered, and fed. The standard water founts and feeders are usually found in both plastic and metal varieties. With the base portion, you can use your own quart mason jar or purchase a plastic bottle attachment. I find the mason jars easier to clean but it really is personal preference. If you start with the quart size feeder and waterer, you will quickly find that your little flock of chicks is eating through the feed amount quickly. Consider buying the water founts and feeders in the gallon size if your brooder has enough room for them.

Speaking of brooders, what is the best brooder for starting to raise chickens for eggs? I like to start with the largest plastic storage bin I can find. Home improvement stores and department stores often have quite a large selection. The storage bin will keep your chicks housed for the first few weeks. I have raised up to a dozen chicks in a storage bin, moving them to a grow out pen as they grew in feathers.

After the chicks are fully feathered the added heat source need should be minimal. Depending on the time of year and the age of the chicks, you may be able to move them to an outside grow out pen in the coop without additional heat. Each case is different and you will need to determine this for your area.

What Type of Litter is Needed When Raising Chickens for Eggs?

Most chicken raisers start with pine shaving as bedding for new chicks. It is kiln dried, clean and dust free. The bedding is soft and absorbent. The chicks will peck at it but the pieces are too large for them to ingest. I recommend that you avoid using any type of paper for the first week. Letting the chick’s legs develop some strength before putting them on a slippery paper surface such as newspaper or paper towel helps avoid splayed leg development. After they chicks have a good start and are strong, newspaper may be a good economical choice especially if you have a messy bunch of chicks. My preference is still pine shavings, though, as it absorbs more moisture and keeps the odors down, too.

What Not to Use for Bedding.

• Cedar shavings – The strong aroma can harm the respiratory tract of chickens.
• Straw- This provides a slippery footing and is messy for chicks.
• Hay – This holds moisture and is too damp.
• Other slippery surfaces, anything damp, anything that the chicks might eat that could be harmful

Should I Add a Chicken Roosting Bar for the Chicks to Stand On?

Yes! Adding a perch is a great way to get the chicks acquainted with what they will find in the big coop. I find a small sturdy branch and place it on the floor of the brooder. It won’t take long for the chicks to hop up on the branch. As they grow, you can raise the branch up off the floor by propping it on two bricks or other sturdy ends.

Time to Move to the Big Coop!

Once the chicks are partially grown, you will be glad to see them move out of your house or garage and into the big coop you have prepared for them. Much the same equipment is needed when caring for the chickens. You still need to provide protection, a dry environment, food, and water. However, at this point, you have another option for feeding. We use open rubber feed bowls for both food and water. I think they are easier to clean, and if the water freezes in the bowl, it will pop right out like an ice cube when the bowl is twisted. Occasionally, a chicken will get some feces into the bowl and this will need to be cleaned as soon as possible. But this does not happen often with our flock. Traditional water founts and feeders are a good option too, but I find that they often are harder to clean and if moisture gets into the food in the feeder, it can mold. The water that freezes in the water fount takes a long time to thaw! Bringing it inside the house may be the option to thaw it and then refill. Heated chicken waterers are available and may be a great investment if you live in a cold climate. With any feeder or water fount, cleanliness is key. Buy the equipment that seems easiest for you to clean, and that will feed and water your flock safely.

Now that the chicks are in the big coop outside, remember that they will need a new chicken roosting bar. A simple finished 2 x 4 piece of lumber is often used for this. Paint the roost bar with a non-toxic paint to prohibit mites from living in the wood. Securely mount the roost in the coop and place a droppings board underneath to collect the droppings for easy removal.

How Big Does the Coop Need to Be?

The usual recommendation for a chicken coop size is 3 to 4 square foot of space for each chicken. This is adequate if they are mostly using the coop for roosting and occasional bad weather. If your chickens need to be cooped up often during the day, up the space requirement to 7 to 8 square foot of space per hen. Chickens that are cooped up for long periods of time may grow bored and have behavior issues such as pecking, cannibalism, egg eating, and other unpleasantness. Some products such as flock blocks, cages that hold fresh greens like a piñata, and other chicken toys may help alleviate boredom in the coop

Now it’s time to sit back and relax while watching the antics of your new backyard pets. Enjoy those delicious fresh eggs which you will find in the coop after the hens are 5 months of age. Nothing beats raising chickens for eggs!

The post Beginner’s Equipment Guide to Raising Chickens for Eggs appeared first on Countryside Network.

By Anita B. Stone, Photographs by S. Tullock – Do you know the basics of farm pond design? If you’re ready to tap into a small backyard pond system on your homesteading land, put nature to work and achieve a sustainable ecosystem while creating a beautiful focal point in the landscape, simply use the following seven steps to plan your water feature.

Step 1: Considerations For Successful Farm Pond Design

There are several things to consider when adding a water feature to the landscape. The first step to a successful farm pond design is to decide what type of pond you desire. Putting your basic farm pond design on paper is a must, so you can see exactly what you are going to construct. Consider the types of aquatic life you want in the pond, whether it is a home for goldfish, a haven for koi, or a combination of plant and aquatic life.

Water circulation is essential and the use of an aeration pump allows you to keep more fish. Liners and shells or stones come in a variety of materials and shapes. Check the pre-fabricated hard shells sold at home improvement centers. A flexible liner can be made to your specifications. No matter what features you choose you have to decide on your approximate cost and overall budget.

The next consideration in creating your farm pond design is to select the proper location. Most ponds are enjoyed when they are installed close to your home, so select an area where you can see the pond. For a small ornamental pond, position it where runoff from rain will not flow into the pond because you may be troubled with chemicals, fertilizers and debris that find its way into the water. Avoid placing a pond too close to trees because falling leaves and limbs will need to be removed from the pond.

Before construction, make sure you check with your county for the proper pond construction permits and with your homeowner’s insurance company for liability and protection from any mishaps.

Step 2: Materials

For any good farm pond design to be successful, you will need a top-notch pond liner that will adapt to any shape or size that you decide to make. Pond liners are sold by the square foot and can be joined to form larger liners. Since liners are priced by the square foot, purchase the exact size you require to save hundreds of dollars.

A flexible butyl rubber liner will last 30 years or more and will not become damaged from the ultra-violet rays and is far less likely to suffer from frost. It is slightly harder to install because it is harder to bend and fold, unlike PVC.

Most people choose PVC because it’s cheaper and will last for about 15 years. PVC is strong and won’t be damaged by frost, but more care is needed to ensure it doesn’t rip or tear.

Pre-formed pond inserts are ideal because they are extremely durable and less susceptible to tears and punctures. An asymmetrical liner is easier to install and needs to be raised off the ground. Once it is high enough, push stakes into the ground to try and map out the shape and contours of the pre-formed liner.

These inserts are very strong, but be sure to support the bottom and all the sides. Do not press down hard when installing them, in case there are sharp objects or protruding stones.

Lily pads provide beautiful flowers while protecting the aquatic life below.

Step 3: Determine the Size and Planting Area

A good farm pond design for a recreational pond should be about 10–15′ deep. A fishpond should have a water depth of at least 15 feet. For a koi pond, make sure you have no less than 1,000 gallons of water in volume. To avoid oxygen depletion and stress on the fish, it is better to maintain a depth of 18–20′ or more.

Planting the area surrounding the pond with shrubs should be done as soon after construction as possible. Shrubs can help with erosion, privacy screening, space definition and climate control. Surface-looming plants such as water lilies require four to six hours of direct sun. Water lilies with surface leaves provide 60 percent shade for fish. Choose plants that optimize natural bacteria to provide the fish with healthy living conditions.

Step 4: Building

There are basically four main ways to construct your farm pond design. Using a flexible liner, a preformed shell, creating your own concrete shape, or simply digging out the desired shape of the pond using tractor bucket attachments and compressing the soil to make it water tight. You will need to add any plumbing prior to installing the liner. Know where any utilities are before digging, to avoid any disasters. When ready to build, mark the area using spray paint, a hose or chalk. You can also place the liner upside down in the desired location and mark around the edge with string or garden hose. Fish are thought to prefer oval or circular shaped pond areas as opposed to square corners.

Once the pond is outlined according to your original farm pond design, remove the liner and excavate to the deepest part of the pond. Dig a hole vertically about 14 inches deep, the size and shape of the pond. Allow about four inches extra width and depth, and keep the dirt close by to use later. It is important to form the sides of the hole level all the way around or the water level won’t be level once the pond is completed. The edge of the pond should have a slight rise to keep out rain run-off.

Reinforce the sides of the pond with 28-gauge roofing flashing. Push PVC stakes six inches into the ground to hold the flashing in place. Smooth the bottom and sides of the pond by clipping all roots and removing rocks, and then cover the bottom and sides with roofing felt.

Once the hole is dug, there is a little plumbing to be done. It is suggested to use 1-1/2″ PVC pipe for ponds up to 1,500 gallons, then graduate to two-inch pipe for ponds over 1,500 gallons. Three- and four-inch pipe should be considered for ponds over 2,500 gallons. When installing PVC, use PVC glue to attach the pipe to the bottom of the pump, allowing debris to be removed. Most of the plumbing will be hidden under the liner and buried in trenches.

If you have an extra $1,700 to install a bead filter, it will trap lots of bacteria and may be added to the system, depending on the size of the pond. You can install an ultraviolet lamp to sterilize free-forming algae so that the water does not turn green. The bead filter will take out the dirt and make the water healthy but the water will not be clear without a UV unit. The UV is a PVC plastic cylinder with two openings so that water can pass from one end to the other. The water passes over a sleeve inside the cylinder where a lamp is encased that emits ultraviolet rays. The UV does not go under water and is most effectively installed after the bead filter. An electrician can assist with the procedure.

Once the extras are installed, place the liner inside the pond. Make sure there will be at least 6″ of extra space around the edges. Once the liner is level, begin to fill with water slowly, and backfill any gaps between the liner and the ground with sand. Keep the bottom and sides smooth by pulling out wrinkles and folding in corners and curves as it fills up. Let the water settle for at least one week. One of the best ways to minimize damage to the liner is to make sure the material is barely visible above the water and that all sides are level.

You can decorate the pond by edging it with stones or bricks; they should overhang the edge by one or two inches. You can also create a six-inch-high shelf around the perimeter of the pond where rocks and boulders hide the liner. Make sure the waterline comes up over the top of this shelf, but not over the top of the liner.

Pull the excess liner over the top of the first layer of stones. Secure them in place with more stones, and keep adding stones until the liner is invisible. Rake the excess dirt back toward the pond to cover any excess liner and secure the rocks in place.

Digging Plant “Shelves”

If keeping plants as part of your farm pond design, dig a shelf around the perimeter of the pond about one foot deep and one or more feet wide—wide enough for the pots. Repeat for all shelves. In small ponds, plant shelves may become an invitation for predators to “climb the steps” and feast on the fish. To counteract this situation, you can place plants along the side of the pond at varying depths without the need for shelves.

Dig the remainder of the pond with a slight slope to the end, opposite the waterfall if one is included in the design.

Pond waterfalls and streams included in your farm pond design can be excavated once an external filter or tank is positioned. This can be placed to spill directly into the pond. A pump is required to run a filter, a fountain or a waterfall in the pond.

If a skimmer is being used to remove debris from the surface of the pond, dig a ditch to the pond pump. Skimmers should be buried beside the pond. If you are using a submersible pump in the skimmer, then the ditch will be from the skimmer to the external pond filter.

Most ponds will benefit from the use of a biological filter. If you keep koi and several goldfish it is recommended to install a biological filter.

It is easier to create and maintain a biological balance in a larger farm pond design. A small pond limits the number of fish and plants. Ponds built in cold areas may need more depth to keep the pond from freezing solid. A finished pond or water garden will probably be smaller than you visualize, so after you lay out your original farm pond design, measure the maximum length and width. Add the depth twice to these measurements plus an extra two feet for overlap, and this will give you the correct pond liner size.

Step 5: Stocking the Pond

Once the pond is filled with water, wait three or four days before adding fish. A good rule of thumb is to purchase only healthy fish from a reputable nursery. They should have erect fins, demonstrate good activity, and a good appetite. How many fish can you stock? Use this as a guide: one inch of fish for every cubic foot of pond surface. You can increase the number of fish if you have a good pond pump and filtration system.

To avoid stress, allow the fish to sit in place inside the contained bag at the edge of the pond for about 20 minutes. Add some of the pond water to their bag to level the pH, and then let the bag sit another 15 minutes. Tip the bag and let the fish swim into the pond.

Never overfeed the fish or the food will pollute your water. If you spot tiny fish, remove them as they may be eaten and keep them in quarantine in another area until they’re larger. During hot spells, the water temperature may get too hot and the oxygen level too low. To increase the level of oxygen, pump the water through a waterfall or fountain, as the droplets of water will contain oxygen when returned to the pond.

Provide places for the fish to hide in the pond by inserting a series of plastic piping into the water. This will enable the fish to hide from birds, cats, and other dangers. An ideal pond will require about five hours of sunlight a day. Sunlight keeps oxygenating plants working, which keeps the water from turning stagnant. Try to cover half the surface with water lilies to achieve some shade across the water.

Step 6: Care and Maintenance

Farm pond maintenance is essential, but simple to do. Check the water quality of your pond on a monthly basis, because water quality will determine the health of the fish and plants. High ammonia levels stress the fish, making them susceptible to disease. A mistake is to think that clear water equals healthy water.

The pH of the water measures acidity, with a range from 0 to 14. If the pH is below 7, the water is acidic, above 7, it is alkaline and equal to 7 it is neutral. The carbon dioxide levels come from fish metabolism, plant respiration, pollution and organic acids in the water. Because impurities also lower the pH level, it is advisable not to use city tap water. Try to stick with a pH level between 6.8 and 9.0. These levels are ideal for both goldfish and koi.

Nitrates are highly toxic to fish. Control nitrates by changing water and filtration. Ammonia is converted into nitrate and is an important part of the nitrogen cycle. Algae in the water consume nitrates as well as plants. To encourage the plants to send out roots and consume waterborne nitrates and phosphates, limit the amount of soil you use. The amount of food you give your fish also influences the concentration of nitrates present. Only feed an amount of food that is eaten within a couple of minutes. Never overstock your pond, as this increases nitrates and the possibility of ill fish.

If alkalinity is less than 50 parts per million, then wide pH swings are common and a filter problem is imminent.

To remove any chlorine, add dechlorinator to the pond and aquatic plants as soon as possible to serve as nutrients.

Remove any dead and dying growth, seed heads and leaves, clearing the pond of all rotting vegetation. Some effective plants recommended are Water Hyacinth, Parrot’s Feather and Bacopa.

You may need a pond skimmer if leaves are a problem.

Step 7: Seasonal Plant and Pond Requirements

During spring, feed fish only with pellets and only enough that they can consume in five minutes. Decaying vegetation and plant growth may make the water black and cloudy, especially in a small pond. Remove any decaying material and perform a partial water change. Trickle in water from a hose, and allow the pond to overflow.

Next, examine your pond plants. Baskets can be raised and the plants divided and replanted. Replace weak plants with new plants. Examine the pond liner for any signs of cracks or rips. Examine everything for wear including electrical cables, and replace if necessary. Clean filters and test underwater lighting/submerged UV filters. Clean the pump filter and run the pump for an hour to ensure that it is fully functional.

Cover pond-side plants that are not hardy with straw, or bring them inside for the winter. Fit or check any pond netting that you have placed over the pond. In autumn the pond may freeze and seal off the water surface, preventing oxygen from reaching the unfrozen water. This stops the toxic gasses from escaping and the ice can cause damage when it expands. If the pond has sloping sides, the ice will be forced upwards. If it is particularly cold, then you can use a pond heater that will heat a tiny fraction of the surface, enough to allow oxygen to reach the surface. Never break the ice with a heavy blow, as this sends shockwaves through the water that can stun or kill the fish. The best method is to place hot water in a metal can that will gradually melt a small part of the surface. You can also drain some water under the ice, as this will act as a form of insulation and still keep some oxygen in touch with the water.

For small spaces, pre-formed pond liners and waterfalls are available at most home improvement and gardening stores, and they’re relatively easy to install.

There is relatively little to do for winter maintenance, besides servicing any pond components. The biggest worry for small ponds in cold areas is the danger of prolonged spells of ice. Simply allow oxygen to reach the surface.

If you wish to achieve an ecosystem pond, line the area with rock and gravel, and then combine fish, plants and beneficial bacteria to create a water garden that practically takes care of itself.

Plant tall plants like reeds, cattails, and cannas in clusters in the background of the water garden. Then, snuggle medium height plants close to the taller ones. You can choose water willow, blue pickerel, and bog arum. Add copperleaf plants in front of the cluster.

To create a stable system, use biological and mechanical filtration, bacteria, fish, plants and plenty of rocks and pebbles. Make sure there are no visible pumps, plumbing or liner material. Simply empty a skimmer basket of twigs and leaves. This type of water pond depends on active bacteria. Though a 6′ x 4′ pond can achieve a natural balance, larger ponds such as 8′ x 11′, for example, achieve the same balance quicker and more effectively, establishing a more stable ecosystem.

Whatever type of pond you build, maintenance is of primary importance. With proper care, your completed farm pond design will offer years of enjoyment, peace, and beauty.

Originally published in the March/April 2010 issue of Countryside & Small Stock Journal and regularly vetted for accuracy.

The post Tips For Farm Pond Design In Your Backyard appeared first on Countryside Network.

There are endless compost bin plans available online. A basic understanding of what components a compost bin must have is essential. Composting is among the easiest, environmentally friendly things to do. Organic composting is an inexpensive way to produce organic fertilizer for your plants and conditioner for your soil.

Learning how to compost at home makes providing fertile, healthy soil for your garden possible. There are numerous commercial garden compost bins available on the market. However, making your own compost bin plans from materials you have around the homestead is a cheap and easy way to create your own garden gold.

Upcycling for Compost Bin Plans

My favorite composting bin involves using worms for a fast and complete way to turn organic material into healthy, garden fertilizer. This is commonly known as vermiposting. As a gardener, you know worms in the garden are a sign of healthy soil.

For worm bins, you’re going to need red wigglers and a large bin. Anything you have on hand will work. A local farmer gave us his used cattle feed tubs. We drilled holes in the bottom to allow for drainage.

You don’t want many or holes that are too large. You need just enough to let the water drain slowly. Too much drainage will make it hard to keep the compost damp and hard for the worms to thrive. Too much water held in the soil will drown the worms.

A few red wigglers quickly become a large population in the right environment. I have learned they love a mixture of horse manure and cardboard mixed in with your organic material. When I’m asked about how to compost chicken manure, I share how we do it with vermicomposting.

After running manure through the worms, it’ll be ready to add to your garden without any danger to your plant roots. Be careful not to use cardboard treated with harmful chemicals.

We’ve used an old boat and an old bathtub, which had been used as a feed trough, as a compost bin for red wigglers. You’ll want to put screen or bird netting over the top to keep the birds and other animals from eating your worms. Yep, it happens.

When you add new food to the pile, give it a light turning. You’ll see worm eggs and worms of all sizes. I always make sure the worms are covered with earth before I replace the screen cover. They’ll burrow themselves, but I like to help them in any way I can.

Using Wood Pallets

When starting a compost pile we scrape off the top soil and lay down a tarp or some other barrier. This keeps the compost from combining with the subsoil. Not everyone does this. I know several people who just place the compost pile on the ground. They don’t mind enriching the soil there and losing some of the compost to the spot.

We then will build a three-sided fence from old pallets to hide the bin and keep the pile contained. You can build a few of these side by side. When you have one filled and you begin to see decomposition, you can start on another pile. This will keep compost piles going in different stages. Once a week, turn the compost over on itself.

It’s important to us to not use wood pallets treated with chemicals. To know how your pallet was treated look for the letters HS either branded or printed on it. This indicates the pallet was heat sealed and not sealed with chemicals.

Most of the fall leaves get mixed in with other organic materials for the compost pile. In six to 10 months, your compost will be ready for use. Vermicomposting cuts down on the time. Compost from your worm bin will be ready in three to six months depending on your worm population.

No Bin Composting

Like we said, some people select a spot and start a compost pile. I’ve done this myself. It was on accident the first time. We piled some leaves intending to come back and split them between the compost bins and deep mulching the garden. They were in an out-of-the-way place and we overlooked them.

When I came upon them, they had started decomposing and were full of critter life. I just added to the pile for a few weeks longer. Then I let it sit with an occasional turning. After several months, I used it in the garden to plant new seedlings.

This type of composting only requires a little attention for turning. You will lose some to the subsoil, but I don’t mind that. Soil enriching is our goal, not matter where it is.

What to Add to Your Compost Bin

Animal manure
Cardboard rolls (We don’t unless we know they are not chemically treated.)
Clean paper (We don’t because of chemicals involved in making the paper.)
Coffee grounds and filters (Not chemically treated filters.)
Cotton rags
Eggshells
Fireplace ashes
Fruit and vegetable scraps
Grass clippings, plants pulled from the garden, green leaves from trimmed limbs.
Hair and fur
Hay and straw
Leaves
Nut shells
Sawdust
Shredded newspaper (We don’t because…you know.)
Tea bags
Wood chips
Wool rags
Yard trimmings

Composting in Small Spaces

Did you know there are even compost bin plans for indoor worm composting? I didn’t either, but how perfect is this for those who have limited space? Most of them say to add the necessary bacteria to speed up the composting process.

There are tumblers designed for patio and balcony spaces. They take up little space and require a simple turning of the handle to rotate the drum. In a few weeks, you’ll have healthy, composted soil.

Ingredients for Success With All Compost Bin Plans

1) Air – Is necessary for decomposing without rotting.
2) Moisture – Not wet, just moist.
3) Green Matter – Is considered the accelerant because of its nitrogen content.
4) Dry Material – Adds carbon to the mix.
5) Heat – Decomposition produces heat; up to 140 degrees F/60 C. Some people use black plastic to increase the heat.

Composting can be made as simple or as complex as you want it to be. We choose the simple approach. Provide the basics and let nature take its course.

Whatever material you choose for your compost bin plan, you’ve made a great start toward improving the soil on your homestead. Having a kitchen compost pail will make it easy to collect your kitchen refuse for composting and for feeding chickens scraps.

I can’t tell you how many people have told me they want to compost, but are afraid it’s too much work and expensive. It can be confusing because there’s so much information out there. We keep things simple.

If I can give you one tip on compost bin plans, I would say simple is always better. Get ideas by looking at the variety available and then inventory what materials you have on hand. Then make your own bin.

If nothing else, just start making a pile. One trip to the local farm supply will shock you at how much healthy, composted soil costs. You’ll quickly realize you can make better compost at home almost free.

Be sure you provide variety in your pile. Too much of either green or dry material won’t allow for the right ingredients to create balanced compost. After all, variety is the spice of life.

Do you have favorite compost bin plans? Will you share your composting tips with us?

Safe and Happy Journey,
Rhonda

Originally published in 2016 and regularly vetted for accuracy.

The post Recycling Materials On Hand For Compost Bin Plans appeared first on Countryside Network.

By Bob Greenwood and Judi Stevens – Did you ever need a rope to tie a gate, make a halter, tie down a load or make a lead rope? Why not make your own? With a few simple tools and supplies, you can make just about any size or color rope you want. Anyone with livestock usually has to feed hay and as a result will have an abundance of used twine that is usually tangled around the feet, draped over a fence or a problem to dispose of. If used twine is not available, new twine can be purchased for a small charge and in a variety of colors. The machinery for making rope can vary from the simplest to the very complex. I will deal with the basics and anyone wanting to make rope can design these rope-making machine plans to fit their purpose.

Rope-Making Machine Plans

The basic tools needed will be a drill and 3/8″ bit, hammer, adjustable wrench, hacksaw, and a torch would be helpful but not necessary. The supplies needed to execute basic rope-making machine plans are four feet of 1/4″ redi rod, 14-1/4″ nuts, 14-1/4″ washers, about 14″ of 3/8″ OD tubing, a small bolt that will fit into the bearing, leaving enough to bend a hook. A piece of 1/2″ plywood 1′ square and a board about a foot wide. The board could be a fence board or just a board that could be fastened to something. You will also need a small Y-shaped, peeled limb about 2″ x 2″ x 6″. The forks should be between 1/2″ and 3/4″ in diameter.

Now that we have the supplies, let’s get started. If you want a permanent location for the rope-making machine, plan enough room to make the length of rope that you want. A rope will usually shrink about 10 percent in the making. Clamp the plywood to the board and drill three holes in a triangle pattern about 4″ on a side. It is very important that the holes are drilled at right angles to the board. Mark the plywood and board so that the holes are always matched. The next step is to cut and bend the rods, see Figure 1. It is important to have the rods bent at exactly 90 degrees and the offsets be the same length. The torch can be helpful in this. The offsets should be about 1″ less than the distance of the holes in the plywood. The third rod is cut longer so as to make the crank. The tubing is cut into seven pieces, three pieces 1/4″ longer than the thickness of the board, three pieces 1/4″ longer than the thickness of the plywood and the last about 6″ long. The rods are assembled as shown in Figure 2 making sure that the mark on the plywood and the mark on the board are in line. It would probably be best if the holes were reamed a bit before the assembly to prevent binding due to a slight difference in length of the rod offsets and a slight difference in the hole angle. After assembly, a hook is bent on each rod. For the crank handle, you can bore a hole in a large dowel or even use a large corn cob. This takes care of one end of the rope, now for the other end.

The movable portion of the rope machine will creep towards the fixed end as you twist the twines. Make sure you have enough weight on the platform to keep your rope taut, but not so much that the rope crimps.

Figure 1

Figure 2

Figure 3

Figure 4

Once you start to twist the three strands together the end of the rope must be allowed to turn. To do this insert the small bolt into the bearing and bend a hook on the hook. The large tube is flattened on one end and a hole is made in the flattened part. The bearing is then inserted into the tube so that the hook extends. The tube is then crimped so that the bearing cannot be pulled out. See Figure 3. This takes care of the equipment, now let’s set it up.

The main assembly can be tied to homestead fencing, nailed to a tree, fastened across a doorway or most any place that is about waist high and solid. The device at the other end of the rope has to be movable due to the shortening of the rope when the strands are twisted. This can be accomplished by tying it to a movable object.

The movable portion of the rope-making machine is comprised of a hook inserted into a crimped tube. As the rope shortens, this portion will edge closer to the crank. You can control the rate of twist with the forked limb.

The twine is placed on the bolt hooks and twists as the handle is turned. Make sure you have 90-degree angles on your assembly. For the crank handle, you can bore a hole in a large dowel or even a large corn cob.

You can also use two pulleys and a rope fastened to an adjustable weight, possibly a bucket of sand, Figure 4. My wife and I have made rope in a variety of places and needed something that was portable. I made a triangle device with two wheels and a drag where weight can be added. Now it’s time to make rope.

Once you determine how long you want your rope to be, set up the movable end that distance from the fixed end plus about 10 percent. Start your rope by tying one end of the twine to one of the three hooks then taking the twine around the moveable hook then back to another of the three hooks. Repeat this process until you have the number of twines in each strand that you desire. If you want to mix the colors of twine of a different size, the size of the strand is more important than the number of twines. When you have the size that you want, secure the bearing at the movable end so that it cannot turn. This can be done with a piece of wire.

Begin twisting the strands. As you twist the twines, the movable end will begin to move closer to the fixed end. The larger the rope the more weight you will need on the moveable end and experience will tell you how much. There must be enough weight to prevent the twisted strand from kinking but not too much as it will prevent the strands from twisting enough. Twist the strands until they feel tight while twisting with your fingers, and again, experience will tell you how tight to twist the strands.

Insert the forked limb between the strands at the movable end. Hold the limb and release the bearing so that it will turn freely. Have someone continue twisting the strand while you control the rate of twist with the limb keeping the twist in the individual strands constant. This will become easier with practice. When all three strands have been completely twisted together wrap the ends of the rope with twine or wire, then cut it free of the machine.

When your rope is complete, wrap the ends with twine or wire, and slowly melt the fibers together.

If you used plastic twine and wrapped it with wire, melt the end and slowly twist the wire off before the plastic becomes hard. Caution! Do not let the hot plastic touch your skin, it is hot and it sticks.

My wife and I enjoy experimenting with different colors of twine, you never know what you will get until you begin the final twist. Using twines of a different size can cause problems due to the difference in shrink as they twist. With experience, you will learn what twines will work together and what ones won’t.

To determine the approximate strength of your rope, multiply the number of twines in your rope by the tensile strength of the twine that you are using. Most bale twines for large round bales are about 100-pound tensile. A rope with 30 strands would have a tensile of about 3,000 pounds.

To make your rope even more useful loops can be woven into the ends. Tie a twine around the rope about 6″ from the end. Each strand is allowed to unwind but the twines are not allowed to separate. Melting can again be used. The rope is then folded back giving the size of loop desired. The separated strands are then worked under one strand and over the next in the opposite direction that the rope is twisted until completed. Ropes may be spliced in a similar manner.

I hope these rope-making machine plans suit your needs. You might also like to learn about DIY fence installation and other ideas for low-cost construction techniques from Countryside Network.

Originally published in Countryside March / April 2003 and regularly vetted for accuracy.

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We’ve got exciting news for all you Backyard Poultry readers out there! If you have a Web-Only or All-Access Backyard Poultry subscription, you now get six EXTRA e-editions a year, in addition to the six issues you receive every other month. Yup, that’s a new issue every month!

Our first-ever Early Spring 2017 e-edition is NOW AVAILABLE! The cover story takes a deep dive into chicken anatomy and biology, covering everything from reproduction to circulation and more! Plus, you’ll get coop inspiration, fun flock photos, and answers to common flock challenges from our poultry experts. Subscribe today and look forward to five more e-editions this year as well as every issue online with a new flip book style!

In this Issue:

+ A Digital Hello — Backyard Poultry editor, Pam Freeman, welcomes you along on the journey as we launch or first e-edition.

+ Flock Photos — Reader-submitted photos. Learn how you can share your poultry photos too!

+ Poultry Talk — Gapeworm troubles, helping with a bleeding comb, and more poultry health questions answered.

Never miss another great issue like this one! Get a wealth of homesteading knowledge delivered to your doorstep, desktop and even tablet! Subscribe today to Backyard Poultry, Countryside, Dairy Goat Journal or sheep!

 Learn About Chicken Anatomy and Biology:

• The Digestive System — Explore how this marvelous system is put together and how it works to keep chickens healthy.

•  A Hen’s Reproductive System — See the fascinating process of how a hen lays an egg.

• A Rooster’s Reproduction System — Many people are surprised to learn a rooster has nothing to do with egg production.

• The Skeletal System — See the special features of the avian skeleton and how a rooster and hen differ.

• The Muscular System — Did you know roughly 175 different muscles comprise about 75 percent of the weight of the chicken?

• The Circulatory System — One important role of a chicken’s circulatory system is to maintain the bird’s body temperature of more than 104°F.

• The Nervous System — Not unlike our own bodies, a chicken’s body needs a control center with a communication network.

• The Endocrine System — The Endocrine System is made up of a number of organs and major glands located throughout the bird.

+ Coop Inspiration Hawaiian Style — A Hawaiian home for Barred Rocks and Silkie chickens.

+ Backyard Poultry Bookstore

And more!

Backyard Poultry magazine is your best source for information on how to raise healthier, more productive backyard chickens, ducks, turkeys, geese and even keeping guinea fowl. Whether you live on a farm, call a suburban neighborhood home, or are mastering poultry farming in an urban environment, we have the how-to guides and tips.

Never miss another great issue! Subscribe to Backyard Poultry today and gain access to the Early Spring 2017 e-edition, and many more to come.

What do you like best about our first e-edition on chicken anatomy and biology? Let us know in the comments below!

The post Examining Chicken Anatomy and Biology — Our First e-edition appeared first on Countryside Network.

We have exciting news for Countryside! If you have a Web-Only or All-Access Countryside subscription, you now get six EXTRA e-editions a year, in addition to the six issues you receive every other month. Yup, that’s a new issue every month!

Our first-ever Early Spring 2017 e-edition is NOW AVAILABLE! You will find the best of beekeeping articles all in one place. This guide to how to start beekeeping covers everything from buying your first bees to making beeswax candles. Subscribe today and look forward to five more e-editions this year as well as every issue online with a new flip book style.

Learn how to start beekeeping with our first e-edition:

+ Beekeeping Journey Photo Essay — Get up close and personal with the bees at the Axe & Root Homestead.

+ Country Conversation & Feedback — Letters from Countryside readers.

In this Issue:

+ Package Bees — Starting beekeeping is easy with package bees.

+ What’s a Nuc? — In a nutshell, a nuc is a small colony to get you started.

+ Catching Swarms Means Free Bees — Start with swarms that are organized and proven survivors.

Photo by Laura Tyler.

+ Preparing For the Queen — How to get your hive and your queen settled.

+ Spring Cleaning — Spring is a time to do cleanups and count dead-outs.

+ What to Know as Spring Unfolds Into Summer — Each season brings a new challenge and opportunity in beekeeping.

+ Supering Up For a Honey Of a Summer — How to maximize your honey harvest.

+ Bee Patient — How angry honey bees taught me to take a deep breath.

+ How to Move the Hive — Safely getting your bees from Point A to Point B.

+ Time to Winterize Your Beekeeping Gear — A few tips to best store your beekeeping equipment for winter.

+ Natural Comb Building: Boon or Bust? — The pros & cons of foundation-free comb building.

A natural comb being built in process. Note how the bees interlock their legs.

+ How to Make Beeswax Candles — Got beeswax? Learn how to make your own candles!

Candles and the dipping vats.

+ Propolis: Bee Glue That Heals — The resin bees leave behind just might keep that cold away.

+ How to Talk to Vegans About Honey — How to have a productive conversation with a honey-curious vegan.

+ Countryside Bookstore

JOIN THE BUZZ ON OUR SOCIAL CHANNELS
Backyard beekeepers have two great ways to connect and share ideas about raising bees:

• Facebook.com/iamabeekeeper
• Instagram.com/backyardbeekeeping

Include #iamabeekeeper for a chance to have your pics shared on our feed

Countryside and Small Stock Journal is more than a homesteading magazine, it’s a network where people who are homesteading today share a variety of experiences and ideas about simple homesteading. In every issue, you’ll learn about practical solutions for growing and preserving your own food, raising chickens and small livestock, and managing a thriving homestead in a rural or urban setting.

Never miss another great issue with practical tips on homesteading today! Subscribe to Countryside and Small Stock Journal today.

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Our April/May 2017 Issue is NOW AVAILABLE, featuring great tips on how to care for baby chicks. Subscribe today!

Learn how to care for baby chickens on their journey from the brooder to coop! This issue is full of must-know information about buying baby chicks and raising them properly, including choosing your chicks, proper brooder temperatures, feeding, and whether or not to vaccinate.

Find all this and more in your April/May 2017 issue of Backyard Poultry magazine! Also, with this issue, you can view it as a new flip book style!

 
In this Issue:

+ It’s All About the Heat! — Learn the proper temperature for baby chicks and when to get them outdoors.

+ A Guide to Getting New Baby Chicks — Plan ahead to get the chicks you want, when you’re ready. Whether you’re starting a new flock or expanding one, it’s good to do some planning and figuring out just what you need ahead of time. This guide will help your chick raising experience go smoothly.

+ Chick Nutrition — Start to Finish — Feeding the right feed at the right time makes the difference.

+ Medicated Chick Starters — Is a medicated chick starter right for your poultry flock?

Never miss another great issue like this one! Get a wealth of homesteading knowledge delivered to your doorstep, desktop and even tablet! Subscribe today to Backyard Poultry, Countryside, Dairy Goat Journal or sheep!

+ Breeding for Egg and Meat Production — Learn how genetics plays a role in quality and quantity.

+ Raise a Basket Full of Colored Chicken Eggs — Breeds that are Easter-ready all year long. No dyes required!

+ The Pros and Cons of Giving Living Easter Gifts — Those babies in the store at Easter are cute, but buyer beware.

+ Heavenly Sweetness: Easy Angel Food Cake Recipe — Make an easy angel food cake with your extra eggs. Yum!

+ Top 7 Questions About Vaccinating Your Flock — Know your options to keep your poultry healthy.

+ 5 Quail Breeds — Diversify and add value to your flock with these dual-purpose birds.

+ Make a Weed Salad with Apple Cider Vinegar — Humans aren’t the only ones that can benefit from a healthy salad!

More Great Resources, Stories, and Tips in Each Issue:

Photo Essay: The Flock at Ward Hill Farm
From The Editor 12/2: Saying “Hi”
Backyard Poultry Bookstore
Poultry Talk: Ask Our Experts
Coming Events
Book Review: Gardening with Chickens
Just For Fun
Breeder’s Directory & Classifieds
And much more!

Backyard Poultry magazine is your best source for information on how to raise healthier, more productive backyard chickens, ducks, turkeys, geese and even keeping guinea fowl. Whether you live on a farm, call a suburban neighborhood home, or are mastering poultry farming in an urban environment, we have the how-to guides and tips.

Never miss another great issue! Subscribe to Backyard Poultry today and get the April/May 2017 issue and many more to come.

What’s your biggest challenge/accomplishment when adding chicks to your flock? Share in the comments below!

The post Spring Issue: How to Care for Baby Chicks appeared first on Countryside Network.

Not only is this my first gardening season in a new growing zone, it’s my first season to be growing seedlings indoors without a power source. Living off the grid has its own set of challenges, I hadn’t considered how it would affect the way we garden. At least the basics of gardening are the same no matter where you. Plants need healthy soil, adequate moisture, plenty of light, and toasty warmth to grow.

If you’re like me, you’ve spent the last few months looking over catalogs arriving in the mail. You open the mailbox and there they are. All those wish books filled with vivid colors, perfect looking fruits, and handy gadgets. Every day is like getting the old Sears Christmas catalog in the mail. You mark the pages by folding them down or you make a list including the page number of everything you want to try. We save our own seeds, but we do like to add something new to the garden every year, especially rare or endangered plants. Some become mainstays in our garden. Even though we save our seeds, looking and dreaming are still fun.

Depending on what growing zone you are in, you may have already started your seedlings. In my new zone, Zone 5 bordering zone 6, I’m told by the local old-timers now is the time to start seedlings. They tell me to be prepared for frosts and even snow at our elevation until June! Coming from the deep south this is a real change for us. In growing zone 8, we would already have potatoes in the ground and sweet potato slips ready and waiting.

So what’s the big deal? Well, we’re staying in the guest cabin of dear friends of ours. This cabin has no phones, no electric and no plumbing. When I say we’re off grid, I don’t mean we have solar, hydro or wind power. I mean we have no power. Our friends have solar panels for home use so we get our water from them. We carry it down to the cabin in 5 gallon buckets a couple of times a week.

Many people use grow lights, heat mats and/or at least some sort of artificial heat and light to get their seedlings started. These can be expensive and frankly I’ve never used them. I have used a well heated room with light bulbs set close to the trays, but now I don’t have light bulbs to stay on for hours at a time to help force the young seeds to grow. Some people say using these helps to have better germination rates and more predictable growth.

Growing seedlings indoors for people who have solar, wind or hydro power with off grid battery banks may even be a challenge because of the many gray days we experience in the winter. My on grid friends down south have been without power for weeks now because of flooding and storm damage. They’ve lost eggs they were incubating because of it and have not been able to start growing seeds indoors using their grow lights. Growing seedlings indoors without power isn’t something only done by those who live off grid, it just has it’s challenges.

I’ve gardened all my life in the south. I was gardening with my grandparents when I could barely walk. Now, we’re making a journey of putting those skills to use in an off-grid world.

How To Start Growing Seedlings Indoors Without Any Power at All

I don’t have my usual potting mix because we made our own on the farm from chicken yard dirt, vermiposted dirt, and sand. Now, I’ll have to purchase organic compost and mix it with top soil from the woods around us. I’ll have to add lime, the old-timers tell me, because of the types of trees here. The various pines and spruces make the soil acidic.

After I’ve prepared my growing trays by adding the soil, the exciting part begins! Adding those tiny little treasures of life, the seeds. I moisten the soil before adding the seeds. This keeps the top from compacting and the seed from washing to a section of the growing tray I don’t want it in.

The seeds are in the soil and now they need heat and light. For us, this is where the challenge begins. We live in a one room cabin so we are limited on space. We heat and cook with a wood stove so we are able to maintain the heat during the day. It’s the night time schedule that has to be altered. We usually get the house warm and then go to bed. We like to sleep cooler so we let the fire die out over night and start fresh in the morning.

Our nighttime temperatures are still in the 20’s and 30’s in late winter and early spring. This is too cool for seeds trying to live and sprout because they need warm soil. Temperature changes from the cool to the warmth can cause fungus to grow on the soil, so maintaining a pretty even temperature is important to the overall health of the seedling. To meet this challenge, we have to get up during the night and keep a low fire going to keep the inside temperature around 60. You could use a wood burning cook stove to do this too. Simply bank it at night and set the trays close to it in chairs or on a table.

Now for the light! The cabin we stay in is nestled in amongst the trees so we don’t have a window through which the sun pours directly. We do have three windows and two of them are very large so a great deal of light gets in. Placing the seed trays in front of the windows allows enough light to coax the little treasures from their slumber. Once you see germination, remember to rotate the trays so you get even growth and the seedling will be strong as it grows toward the light.

On days when the outside temperature is 50 or above, the seedlings can be set outside in the direct sun. We have a weatherproof fold out table which is perfect for this job. Covering them with clear plastic helps to keep the moisture and heat in so they can soak up the warmth and light without drying out. Since it’s still so cool, I cover them when outside. If it ever gets above 60 (surely it will) they won’t have to be covered when outside.

Different seeds do have different germination requirements. Cool weather crops don’t require as much attention to warmth, but you don’t want them to be too cold or exposed to freezing temps. If you use plastic coverings or tops on your trays, be sure to remove them once you see germination.

Once the ground temperature is warm enough for each crop, they can be hardened-off. Do this by placing the plants outside for longer and longer periods of time each day until they are hardy and ready to go in the ground. Depending on the crop, it can take a couple of days to a week for this process.

Knowing about growing seedlings indoors without power is a skill worth having. You never know when you may find yourself in a situation where you will be without power and need to get the garden going.

Do you start your seeds with power or without? Share your tips for growing seedlings indoors with us in the comments below.

Safe and Happy Journey,

Rhonda and The Pack

The post Growing Seedlings Indoors Without Power appeared first on Countryside Network.

Countryside & Small Stock Journal May/June 2017 issue is NOW AVAILABLE! Subscribe today.

Say cheese! From soft to hard varieties, learning how to make cheese at home is a rewarding experience. In Countryside’s May / June 2017 issue, Marissa Ames shows you how to get started with several popular cheese recipes and thorough step-by-step instructions. 

+ How to Make Cheese at Home — Cheese can be made right in your home for custom flavor and quality. Sure, there’s a learning curve and you need specific equipment, but if you start at the simplest recipes and work up, you’ll soon have amazing selections, made with your own two hands. Learn how to make mozzarella cheese in seven easy steps; recipes and uses for feta cheese; a traditional paneer cheese recipe; and much more!

+ How to Start Dairy Farming with Goats and Sheep — There are more options than only the traditional dairy cow. Delicious milk, high in nutrients, is a good reason for choosing dairy goats and sheep. Careful thought and preparation are necessary if you plan on adding a dairy goat farming business plan to your homestead goals. We will show you some ideas that will get you on a successful path.

+ No Spring Chicken — There are many reasons to keep older hens around your homestead. Lisa Steele talks about alternatives to culling chickens, and how to put an older hen to work in your coop. From making good broody hens to producing larger eggs, you can find a use for an older hen other than chicken soup.

NEW! Read this issue as a flip book!

In this Issue:

+ Heirloom Tomatoes Withstand the Test of Time — Top quality taste and freshness passed through generations.

+ Coriander/Cilantro: Herb and Spice All in One — This plant provides bang for the buck with dual uses.

+ Buzz Off! — Plants that naturally repel insects.

+ How to Make Cheese at Home — From soft to hard, cheese can be made right in your home for custom flavor and quality.

+ Managing Pests in the Beehive — Ants and Varroa Mites can be controlled using these natural techniques.

+ How to Start Dairy Farming with Goats and Sheep — Cows aren’t the only path to dairy success.

+ It’s Time to Milk the Cows! — Tips and advice from active dairy farmers.

+ No Spring Chicken — Older hens don’t have to end up in the stew pot, they can have value on the homestead.

Don’t Miss These Great Features and More:  

An Easy Carrot Cake Recipe Evokes Sweet Memories

RX From Mother Nature

Digging Fence Holes 101

Book Preview: Homegrown Herbs

Also in This Issue:

I Am Countryside Reader Submitted Photos — May/June 2017

From Countryside’s NEW! Editor, Pam Freeman — May/June 2017

Countryside Conversation & Feedback — May/June 2017

Countryside Bookstore

Almanack 101/3

Countryside Back Issues Available

Countryside and Small Stock Journal is more than a homesteading magazine, it’s a network where people who are homesteading today share a variety of experiences and ideas about simple homesteading. In every issue, you’ll learn about practical solutions for growing and preserving your own food, raising chickens and small livestock, and managing a thriving homestead in a rural or urban setting.

Never miss another great issue with practical tips on homesteading today! Subscribe to Countryside and Small Stock Journal today.

The post Learn How to Make Cheese at Home appeared first on Countryside Network.

When chicken keepers get their birds, they often wonder what to feed chickens. It’s probably the first question most newcomers ask. They naturally concentrate on commercial feed rations, fresh water, and nutritious treats. But what about prebiotics and probiotics for chickens?

This is a topic we’re all familiar with as humans since we see lots of commercials for foods that have probiotics right in them. Big celebrities endorse the regularity and gut health that probiotics can bring. But does this work with backyard chickens?

First, let’s get back to the basics and explore what are prebiotics and probiotics. Probiotics are live organisms that live in your intestinal tract and, to put it delicately, keep things cleaned out and flowing well. They also help to strengthen your immune system. They can be found in foods that have live cultures, like sauerkraut, apple cider vinegar, cheese, sour cream and, famously, yogurt. Prebiotics set the stage for probiotics because they are the food for probiotics. Prebiotics are a non-digestible type of plant fiber. Many high-fiber foods are also high in prebiotics.

At Bluebonnet Feeds^® we love your chickens as much as you do. Each and every bag is hand-crafted with an open label, locked formula, and wholesome natural ingredients. We even include prebiotics and probiotics for unmatched support of the digestive and immune systems. Healthy birds are happy birds! Visit www.bluebonnetfeeds.com to find a dealer near you.  

Probiotics for Chickens — What Do They Help?

These tiny organisms can be helpful to chickens just as they are in humans. Remember, that if you have a sick chicken, prebiotics and probiotics should not be considered as medicine. These are meant to support a chicken’s health and help prevent future illnesses.

• Probiotics for chickens can help to prevent and clear up diarrhea. If you have an adult chicken with a chronically “poopy” butt, try probiotics. If you have a baby chick with a poopy butt, that’s an entirely different matter. Usually, that’s a case of pasty butt and should not be treated with prebiotics and probiotics.
• Probiotics for chickens can mean fewer flying insects. If you have chickens with clean butts, that attracts fewer flies. This is good for everyone around a chicken coop, and especially your chickens. Flies carry disease. A “poopy” matted butt attracts flies and this can lead to fly strike, an especially awful situation where the flies lay their eggs in your chicken. This is painful as the eggs hatch and maggots eat your chicken. It can lead to death if not treated properly and promptly.
• Probiotics for chickens can lead to less smelly feces with less ammonia.
• Probiotics for chickens can lead to a better feed conversion ratio.
• With a healthy digestive tract, hens that consume probiotics can maintain a healthy weight and keep quality egg production high.
• The instances of salmonella in chickens that consume probiotics drop significantly.
• Probiotics for chickens can aid in composting.

So, how can you make sure your chickens are consuming probiotics? First, pick a high-quality commercial feed that contains prebiotics and probiotics. You’ll find lots of choices at the feed store. Just be sure to read the label. Most companies are proud to say they’ve included these digestive additives.

Second, many foods that are on the list of what chickens can eat also contain prebiotics and probiotics. If you’re giving your chickens treats, why not make sure they contain these nutritional powerhouses! Just remember to keep treats at 10 percent of a healthy diet. Also, remember that dairy in small quantities is not bad for chickens. Chickens are not lactose intolerant. They can digest small amounts of dairy products. But, the effectiveness of probiotics can be reversed if you give your chickens too much milk. Small quantities equal big happiness!

Prebiotics are a little easier to give chickens since they come from high-fiber foods. These are more easily found. We usually have some scraps from the kitchen or leftovers from dinner that fit the bill! Plus, the added bonus is they make great, healthy treats that your chickens will love.

Overall, the key to healthy chickens is a rich and varied diet that contains lots of nutrient-rich foods, along with clean water, a clean coop and plenty of fresh air and exercise. Prebiotics and probiotics for chickens can help chickens stay healthy and productive as part of your backyard farm. They are easy to give your chickens whether through commercial feed and/or yummy treats. Your chickens will thank you for it with lots of fresh eggs. And, they’ll have nice clean fluffy butts for all your Fluffy Butt Friday pictures!

Do you use prebiotics and probiotics for your chicken’s health? Do you give your chickens prebiotics and probiotics solely through their commercial feed or do you supplement with natural treats? Please let us know in the comments below.

The post The Scoop on Using Prebiotics and Probiotics for Chickens appeared first on Countryside Network.

By Cheryl K. Smith – When you’re learning goat farming basics, it pays to ask yourself if you want to raise your dairy goats for organic goat milk. It’s a question asked more frequently, as people in the U.S. get more interested in growing and eating organic foods. People are looking to change their diets to include not only organic fruits and vegetables, but organic dairy products and meat as well.

The Organic Trade Association, a North American trade organization for the organic industry, polled Baby Boomers in 2010 and found that about three-quarters of them had purchased organic or natural foods. The market for such foods is growing by about 20% a year, so dairy goat farmers who sell their milk or dairy products need to give serious consideration to changing their methods if they want to be part of that trend. Switching to certified organically raised goats can mean a higher price for dairy products, as people grow more concerned about GMO crops, exposure to pesticides, out-of-control use of antibiotics, and other chemicals in food animals as well as the perception that organic is better for health.

Besides providing organic goat milk and other dairy products to meet growing market demand, learning organic goat farming basics also promotes sustainability. Organic manure produced by the goats can be used as fertilizer (and become another product to sell); less soil is lost to erosion with organic processes; raising goats organically causes less pollution (particularly to groundwater); and less fossil fuel is used because chemical fertilizers have been eliminated.

This article covers organic goat farming basics, as well as the requirements for raising goats that can be organically certified, some of the difficulties in meeting these requirements, and some alternatives that may meet the needs of dairy goat farmers who want to make a change for the better.

So, what is the definition of organic when it comes to goat farming basics? Organic goat milk or meat is from goats that were raised according to the standards of the National Organic Program and certified by an accredited state or private agency.

Organic is not the same as natural, which refers to products that are minimally processed with no artificial ingredients, coloring agents or chemicals. Organic is also not the same as pasture-raised or grass-fed, although this is a requirement for the organic certification. In 2010, the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) further restricted the definition of organic milk and meat to require that it come from livestock that graze on pasture for at least one-third of the year, getting 30% of their feed from grazing. Previously they only had to have “access to pasture.”

Making the switch to raising goats organically may not be easy, and for some farmers, it may be impossible. Some farmers may find the requirements for organic certification difficult to meet, depending on their farm and the local conditions, but they can at least begin moving in that direction.

In addition to federal organic standards, some states have even more restrictive requirements. Dairy goat farmers need to check with their state Agriculture Departments to find out what, if any, requirements the state will impose before getting too far into development of a plan to go organic with their goats.

Organic Goat Milk Requirements:

• Produced by farmers who emphasize the use of renewable resources and the conservation of soil and water to enhance environmental quality for future generations
• From goats that are given no antibiotics or growth hormones
• Produced without using most conventional pesticides; fertilizers made with synthetic ingredients or sewage sludge; bioengineering; or ionizing radiation
• Farm where organic goat milk is produced is inspected and certified by a government agent to make sure the farmer is following all the rules necessary to meet USDA organic standards
• Companies that handle or process organic goat milk before it gets to the local supermarket or restaurant must be certified organic
• Source: USDA Consumer Brochure: Organic Food Standards and Labels: The Facts

Living Conditions

The requirement that goats be on pasture at least one-third of each year entails more than just putting them in just any outdoor or indoor area for the required amount of time. The Standard also requires that they have shade, shelter, exercise space, fresh air and direct sunlight.

The shelter provided must promote the healthy and natural behaviors and maintenance of the goats. This includes ensuring that they are safe (minimize hazards to prevent injury), have an opportunity to exercise, are protected from severe temperatures, have adequate ventilation and have appropriate bedding (clean and dry).

A few exceptions to the Standard allows temporary total confinement at times. These include inclement weather, health and safety issues and risk to soil or water quality. Nevertheless, to be certified organic, dairy goats cannot be totally confined for all or even a majority of their lives.

The Organic Standards also address pasture fencing. They prohibit the use of treated wood, where it may come into contact with soil crops or the goats. While most older fencing may be grandfathered in, farmers who are starting with a new farm or replacing old fencing need to be aware of this prohibition and avoid using treated wood in fence construction.

Pasture Requirements 

In order to be certified organic, goats must be raised on pasture that is certified organic. This requires that no pesticides, herbicides, chemical fertilizers or any other restricted materials be used. Unless the pasture land to be used for goats is already certified, obtaining initial certification will take time.

In order to get initial certification for pasture land, a farmer must be able to show that no prohibited substance has been applied for 36 months prior to full certification. Dairy goat farmers who recently purchased property may have a harder time getting certified unless the prior owner is willing to assist with proving that no prohibited substances were applied. This is something to keep in mind when purchasing new property with plans to raise organic dairy goats.

Another important aspect of raising organic dairy goats is the need to avoid overstocking—which will lead to overgrazed pasture land. Overgrazed pasture, or pasture otherwise lacking vegetation, is not considered pasture under the certification standards anymore than a feedlot.

To ensure that the requirement for no spraying is met, if a pasture abuts a roadway where a county or other municipality may spray the roadside for weeds, put up signs indicating that the property is an organic farm and spraying is prohibited. Contact the municipality as well, to ensure that you meet their needs for any other required documentation. In organic management of goats, pasture rotation is extremely important because using most chemical dewormers is prohibited. Pasture rotation discourages parasite overpopulation, especially in warm, wet regions, as well as discouraging overgrazing and allowing time for vegetation to rest and regrow.

ATTRA—National Sustainable Agriculture Information Service has a helpful publication for educating farmers regarding organic pastures, Pastures: Going Organic. It can be obtained free of charge. This publication discusses all issues relevant to organic pasture for goats and other livestock to be certified organic, including fence construction.

Feed and Supplements

Organic livestock may be fed only hay, grain, milk replacer, minerals and any other supplement such as kelp or beet pulp that is certified organic. This means that it may not be genetically modified and may not contain synthetic hormones, antibiotics, coccidiostats or other restricted materials. Goats may not be given any of those additives directly, either. The bedding used for goats must also be certified organic, whether it is straw, wood chips or wood pellets, because goats may eat the bedding.

Restricted materials for organic livestock include:

• Animal drugs and synthetic hormones
• Plastic pellets
• Urea
• Manure (including poultry litter)
• Slaughter by-products
• Excessive amounts of feed supplements or additives
• Synthetic amino acids

An exception to the 100% organic requirement is for a dairy goat herd that is being converted to organic management. The products from these goats may be marketed as transitional while the farmer is working toward organic certification. The goats may be fed up to 20% conventional feeds for the first nine months of the transition, but then they must receive 100% organic feeds.

One major change that some dairy goat farmers who are switching to organic production will have to face is how they handle raising baby goats, or kids. Kids may be bottle-fed with milk replacer only on an emergency basis. This is because dam-raising is more natural and sustainable, and no organic goat milk replacer currently exists for goat kids, although in the UK one was introduced in 2008 for calves. Kids may still be bottle-fed, but some of the milk that would otherwise be sold now must be given to the kids for several months, or kids have to be left on their dams for the first few months.

Another potential impediment is meeting the feeding requirements for their dairy goats. The area of the country, as well as the amount of land a goat farmer has available, may make 100% organic feed impossible. Farmers with a small acreage, and in the desert, for instance, will be unable to grow their own hay, alfalfa, and grain and will need to rely on what is available commercially. In some areas, finding organic feeds is next to impossible. In many cases, despite availability, the cost is prohibitive. Each farmer needs to determine what these costs will be, along with the market rate for organic goat milk or other dairy products, to determine whether raising organic goats is economically feasible. Those with small dairy goat herds who want to go organic for purely personal reasons may find it worthwhile to search out organic feeds, despite the high prices.

Feed mills are often willing to work with a nutritionist and create a custom feed mix using organic products, if they are available. Ideally, the feed mill will be local so that shipping costs can be limited. One way to provide custom organic goat feed for less cost is to find a group of people who are interested in purchasing as a cooperative and having large quantities made at one time. It may take some coordination and time to get the bugs worked out of a distribution system, but once a group of local, like-minded farmers have signed on and prepaid, you are ready to go.

Health Care

Caring for goats and health care can be one of the most challenging aspects of organic goat farming basics. A goat cannot be certified organic if it has been treated with antibiotics, or a synthetic or non-synthetic substance that is prohibited by the law. Yet goats do get sick with diseases that require the use of such substances. In fact, producers must treat sick animals, even if doing so will cause them to lose their status as “organic.” So the challenge is, whenever possible, to find treatment methods that are organic and that are effective.

The Livestock Healthcare Standard requires producers to use preventive health care practices (vaccination is allowed), not treat goats that are not sick (e.g., giving antibiotics or dewormers routinely), and make sure the goats’ living conditions and feed ration promote good health.

One of the most difficult health care problems encountered with organic goat farming basics is controlling parasites. Ivermectin is the only chemical dewormer that is allowed for use on organic goats. However, it may only be used if the goat is determined to have a parasite overload based on fecal egg counts. Even though it is allowed under those circumstances, farmers may not administer Ivermectin to breeding stock during the last third of gestation or when they are nursing kids that are to be sold, labeled or represented as organically produced. When used in dairy stock, the dewormer may not be given to goats for at least 90 days before milk production or the production of organic goat milk products.

Besides prohibitions on when dewormers may be administered, another problem exists: In some areas, parasites have become resistant to Ivermectin, so goats that are treated with this allowable dewormer may still have problems. Some farmers use herbal dewormers, but they have not been shown in controlled studies to be as effective, so may not be the best choice. Fortunately, a lot of research is being done on alternatives to chemical dewormers. Alternative parasite control methods that are being studied include tannin-containing plants, such as oak leaves or sericea lespedeza; copper-oxide wire particles; biological controls such as earthworms, dung beetles and fungi; and pasture rotation, which was mentioned earlier. Dairy goat farmers who are interested in organic goat farming basics and keep good records can also learn which of their goats seem to be more resistant to parasites and other diseases and cull those that aren’t.

The Organic Health Standard also requires that physical alterations—such as tattooing or other identification, disbudding and castration—be done only in a way that promotes the welfare of the goat and minimizes pain and stress. Although there are no hard and fast rules, these are areas that must be addressed in an Organic System Plan and farmers need to be able to show that the way they perform these procedures meets the criteria.

Organic goat farmers need to educate themselves and make sure that their veterinarian is aware of organic standards in regard to medications that are often recommended or prescribed for goats. Consider giving them a copy of the regulations or the Livestock Workbook if they are not already familiar with the program. That way you can work together to determine how best to treat your goats when they do get sick and not mistakenly give a prohibited drug.

Other Considerations for Organic Goat Farming Basics

The National Organic Standard contains other requirements that farmers need to take into consideration. Manure management may or may not be a problem, depending on the acreage and number of goats being kept. One major intent of this provision is to keep manure out of waterways—a problem for larger farms and less so for small farms.

Recordkeeping is critical to raising goats for organic goat milk and dairy goat farmers need to set up a recordkeeping system prior to applying for organic certification. Required records include “all records of the operation,” and they must be understandable and available for inspection. Some of these records include identification for each goat including whether it was born on the farm or purchased, all veterinary and other health records for each goat, and feed information, which includes keeping all feed tags from feed that is purchased. These records can also serve a secondary purpose of tracking health issues to determine whether a certain goat or a certain line should be culled.

The standard also addresses the requirement for processing of goat products. For example, organic meat may not come in contact with non-organic meat and no synthetic materials may be used during its processing. Farmers need to review the standard to determine whether other requirements for food processing will affect their operation and whether they can be met.

Certification Process for Raising Organic Goats

Obtaining an initial certification requires the following steps:

• Find a certifier in your state. (A list can be found at the USDA Agricultural Marketing Site, www.ams.usda.gov.
• Complete an application form. (Note: Some federal funds are available through states to reimburse applicants for obtaining organic certification.)
• Describe, in writing, practices and procedures to be used.
• Make a list of each substance you will use in production, noting its composition, source, and where/how it will be used.
• Describe how the plan will be implemented and monitored.
• Describe the record keeping system(s) that will be used to comply with requirements.
• Describe practices and procedures to be used to ensure that organic and nonorganic products are not mixed.
• Schedule an on-site inspection by a certifier.

Initial certification is granted in perpetuity, but farmers must pay a certification fee and update their initial Organic System Plan every year—it isn’t a one-time deal. Small farmers who market less than $5,000 of organic products annually are not required to apply for organic certification, although they must still comply with production and handling requirements. While the milk from such a small goat farm may be marked “organic,” farmers who rely on this exemption may not use the organic seal on their products.

Conclusion

Dairy goat farmers who think they may want to get into organic goat production should first learn everything they can about organic certification under the federal and their state laws. A good resource is the National Center for Appropriate Technology’s (NCAT) Livestock Workbook: A Guide to Sustainable and Allowed Practices. This book not only includes much information on organic livestock practices and organic goat farming basics, but also contains a checklist that farmers can use to prepare to switch to organic systems. It can be used to determine what steps to take to begin working toward certified organic production.

The first step in organic goat farming basics is to begin transitioning pasture and cropland. Remember that this step may take as long as 36 months if the land is not already certified organic. While implementing this step, farmers have time to think through and create their required Organic System Plan, talk with a someone who can help you get organic certification, start thinking through policies and procedures to be implemented, and develop a good recordkeeping system.

Farmers who don’t have the acreage, or the right locale to grow feed, need to start looking for feeds that are grown organically or made with organic ingredients. Although this may be an insurmountable barrier for some, one alternative is to use as many certified organic ingredients as possible, and then find “no spray” ingredients to make up the rest of the feed. Although this will prevent organic certification, it will still be a good marketing point for sales and can possibly help a farmer obtain a higher price for milk and dairy products. It also can be a positive first step for future certified organic production, because we can expect more feed producers to switch to organic.

Originally published in 2011 and regularly vetted for accuracy. 

The post How to Raise Dairy Goats for Organic Goat Milk appeared first on Countryside Network.

In case you haven’t heard, we’ve got exciting news for all you Backyard Poultry readers out there! If you have a Web-Only or All-Access Backyard Poultry subscription, you now get six EXTRA e-editions a year, in addition to the six issues you receive every other month. Yup, that’s a new issue every month!

Our Spring 2017 e-edition is NOW AVAILABLE. Join us as we explore cherished chicken breeds, discover some of the world’s most unique chickens, explain bantam chicken breeds and much more! Plus, you’ll get chicken coop inspiration, fun flock photos, and answers to common flock challenges from our poultry experts. Subscribe today and look forward to four more e-editions this year as well as every issue online with a new flip book style!

In this Issue:

•  From the Editor: Selecting a Chicken Breed — Backyard Poultry editor, Pam Freeman, addresses choosing the perfect chicken breed for your homestead.

•  Flock Photos — Reader-submitted photos, featuring photos from our Instagram #backyardpoultryfelfiecontest. Learn how you can share your poultry photos too!

•  Something to Crow About — Readers write in about their experience in raising poultry, from a special needs chicken to double yolk eggs, join us as we learn more about our poultry readers.

• Poultry Talk — Feeding picky chickens, increasing egg production, and more poultry health questions answered.

Never miss another great issue like this one! Get a wealth of homesteading knowledge delivered to your doorstep, desktop, and even your tablet! Subscribe today to Backyard Poultry, Countryside, Dairy Goat Journal or sheep!

 Learn About Poultry Breeds:

• Poultry Breeds … What Are They Anyway? — What is the true definition of a poultry breed and why does it matter?

• Unique Among Chickens — Distinctions that separate some breeds from all others.

• Are Bantams Real Chickens? — Yes! And for some, they are even ideal chickens.

• Small & Useful Bantam Chickens — Bantam chicken breeds that prove good things come in small packages.

• Wyandottes, An American Tradition — Fall in love with one of the most prominent chicken breeds in America.

• A Storybook Life of a Polish Chicken — Jan Brett, author and illustrator, travels the world and raises world-class chickens.

• Delawares — A few poultry enthusiasts are passionately trying to recreate this entirely American bird.

• Garfield Farm and the Java Chicken — A second chance for one of America’s oldest chicken breeds.

• The Long Line of Brown Leghorns — Explore the legacy of the most commonly kept breed.

• The Fighting Story Behind Hawaii’s Feral Chickens — Stray chicken-corralling is proving a costly venture in Hawaii.

• Coop Inspiration — A Rustic Coop — An upcycled design that blends with its surroundings.

• Backyard Poultry Bookstore

And more!

Backyard Poultry magazine is your best source for information on how to raise healthier, more productive backyard chickens, ducks, turkeys, geese and even keeping guinea fowl. Whether you live on a farm, call a suburban neighborhood home, or are mastering poultry farming in an urban environment, we have the how-to guides and tips.

Never miss another great issue! Subscribe to Backyard Poultry today and gain access to the Spring 2017 e-edition, and many more to come.

What is your favorite chicken breed? Why? Let us know in the comments below!

The post Exploring Cherished Chicken Breeds appeared first on Countryside Network.

Our May/June 2017 issue of sheep! is NOW AVAILABLE. Learn why this magazine is the leading source for sheep information for the modern flockmaster seeking to raise sheep for profit or personal use.

Some of our readers have two or three wool sheep that they shear so they can spin the wool and use it themselves. Others own large commercial flocks whose meat and milk they sell all over the world. And still others are somewhere in between. The one thing they have in common is that they all need help solving the inevitable problems that arise when sheep farming. And so we give it to them critical sheep information every issue! You’ll quickly discover that sheep! makes your life better no matter what your interests are, no matter how many sheep you own, and no matter how long you’ve been raising them.

In this issue of sheep!:

Prepare Livestock Guardian Dogs For Summer by Brenda M. Negri
Longer and warmer days are often a time to rejoice in many parts of the USA where winter is a snowbound affair of many months. Livestock Guardian Dogs (LGDs), like other creatures, need some pre-summer preparation, care, and maintenance. Just like winter, summer can bring its own challenges for working dogs. Learn some recommendations for keeping your guardian dogs comfortable and healthy when the temperatures begin to rise.

Sheep are stupendous! sheep! is the leading source for the sheep information you need to keep your flock healthy and profitable. Subscribe Now!

Challenge Ram, Can Lost Respect Be Regained Via Conquest, Reason Or Trust? By Nancy Jurek
Working with rams can be a challenge, but you can regain respect. Nancy shares her story of dealing with a challenging ram.

A Real Flock Shop By Jacqueline Harp
“Waterford Market, a small, sheep-focused, retail establishment located in Waterford, Virginia is known locally for quality lamb cuts, extraordinary whole-lamb sausage, and farm-to-shop wool products tucked around an eclectic, yet tasteful assortment of candies, ice cream, canned goods, and snacks. For more than three decades, the Waterford Market has been an anchor for the retail business district of a small town and a beloved tourist destination.”

Making Pasture & Forages Work for Sheep By Dean Oswald, Animal Systems Educator, Universty of Illinois
Set annual goals for the forage and pasture grazing system. Under most farm circumstances a forage grazing plan will require several years to implement selected goals. Fencing is a key factor in controlling sheep, which is necessary for animal control and predator reduction. And makes a managed grazing system work. Start fencing plans early. Make problem weed control an early goal, to reduce competition with grazing plants and before adding legumes or forbs to the pasture mix. Grazers should try to optimize pasture yield, quality, and persistence of the forage.

The Raising of Klutzee Marie, Diligence Pays Off By Niki Stevens
Deligence pays off when helping a lamb that was born the smaller of a set of twins. Her mother had dropped her into the dirtiest spot in the barnyard and hadn’t cleaned her off very well. There was a  point when this lamb seemed it couldn’t make it. But she had already shown that she was a very determined lamb. Between tube feeding, enemas and antibiotics learn how this lamb was nursed back to good health.

More Than Words By Denice Rackley
Dogs take sights, sounds, and smells into consideration. They know by smell if people and animals are confident or nervous, content or angry and so forth. Being aware of how dogs process their environment, you can begin to understand how to communicate effectively with them.

More Sheep Farming Information in the May/June 2017 issue of sheep!:

DEPARTMENTS

• Scribblings: “De-Nestoring” the Sheep Bix, A Modest Proposal
• sheep! Photo Contest
• Meeting of Minds
~ “Red Wolves” Not a Species?
~ Hay Unroller Cuts Labor
~ Fighting Ruinous Jumbo Flukes
~ How Ear Tags Can Help You
~ How They Sheared On a Table
~ Trademark Protection Awarded Pure U.S. Shetland Products
~ A New Sale for a New Approach
~ Monitoring “Slacker” Ewes Using Electronic Devices
~ Federal or State Lands, Part 4
~ View from Down Under
~ Hair Sheep Reports
• Wool Gatherings
• Sheep May Safely Graze: Coyotes, The Basics
• Shearing Notes
• Price Reports
• sheep! Bookstore
• Sheep Dairying, There’s No Place Better for Sheep Dairying than America
• Poor Will’s sheep! Almanack
• Vet Check
• News Bleat
~ Winter Exercise Helps Lambing Success
~ Show Sheep & “Tag Swapping”: DNA Verification In Store?
~ U. of Tennessee: “New Johnes Test Detects Antibodies”
~ U.S. Sheep Inventory Down Again In 2016
~ 30 Year Search Reveals How Melatonin Signals Sheep Estral Hormones
~ Global Study Shows Sheep Milk Needs More Good Press
~ Measurable Antibodies For Worms:  “Bred In Resistance”
~ Straight-Wool Sheep Appearing In N.Z. A Valuable “Mutant?”
• sheep! Breeders & Classifieds

ON THE COVER:
Untitled, by Sophie Sprague in northwest Florida. She noted “This little ewe is the first animal born on our farm!” Happy with the small size and gentle nature of sheep, she added, “We’re excited to expose our daughter (Anna, shown in the photo) to things she’d have missed out on had we not made the move to the farm.”

sheep! magazine delivers thoughtful feature articles and the latest sheep information to make every shepherd more knowledgeable and better able to raise healthy, productive flocks for profit and satisfaction.

Never miss another great issue filled with actionable sheep information for today’s flockmaster. With just a few issues of sheep!, you’ll be well on your way to mastering how to raise sheep.

Subscribe to sheep! magazine today.

The post Prepare Livestock Guardian Dogs for Summer and More! appeared first on Countryside Network.

What is driving the recent trend in raising miniature goats, cows, chickens and other livestock? As more people move toward a simpler way of life, and are living in a more self-sustainable way, they may be interested in having a family milk provider. Families may choose to raise their own meat but not have enough room for raising traditional full-size livestock breeds. Both goats and cows produce delicious milk, but the miniature goat is more suited to a small plot of land and a smaller family. Small breed livestock needs less pastured, fenced land, less grain, and leave less waste to clean. In many cases, raising miniature goats and other livestock of smaller stature makes a lot of sense for the modern homesteader.

Today, many families want to return to their agrarian roots, but don’t have the money to buy a large ranch and raise full-size cattle, goats, pigs or other livestock. A smaller homestead, of a few acres, allows these families the room to grow vegetables, and also keep some livestock for the family’s needs.  Choosing to raise miniature goats or cows and other livestock allows the family to fit more production into the family homestead. Lesa Wilke, author of Nigerian Goats 101: Background & Basics (2015) and creator of the popular Better Hens and Gardens blog (www.betterhensandgardens.com) states “Nigerian Dwarf goats are becoming quite popular because they’re small, cute, low maintenance, and very productive for their size. They don’t require pastures, are easy to handle and house, and can provide milk, meat, brush control, and fertilizer. They are the size of a medium to large dog, so they’re an easy homestead addition — regardless of whether the homestead is large, small, rural, suburban, or urban. For us, it was the small size, brush control, and incredible tasting milk that caused us to choose them for our farm.“- Lesa Wilke.

Most breeds of miniatures have decent dispositions, along with the smaller size. These qualities allow them almost pet status in the family. Along with the smaller size comes less waste produced and less feed intake. The feed conversion for most miniature livestock is very good.

Points to Consider

Miniature livestock are still larger than many family dogs. If you don’t have the strength and fortitude to handle a large dog, you may not be able to handle raising miniature goats and other miniature livestock. Be realistic about your personal strength and abilities before acquiring any size livestock.  Because the miniature goats, cows, and sheep usually have sweet, docile dispositions, they may not bite but kicks can be dangerous!

Caring for the Animals

The same care needs to be performed on miniature livestock as it does on the full-size versions. Hoof trimming, worming, milking, shearing and health checkups all need to be done. Check to see if there is a livestock veterinarian in your area. While some forms of care could be performed by any licensed veterinarian, these animals are still livestock with the specialized needs of livestock. Finding an urban veterinarian willing to come out to your farm and trod through mud to help an ailing cow, miniature or not, is unlikely.

Fencing, Housing, Equipment

Unless you want to go collect your livestock from the neighbor’s garden, make sure you have the correct fencing for the animals you choose to raise on your farm.  Even though the animals are shorter, pygmy goats, for example, are very good at jumping over fences. Raising miniature goats, cows, or pigs means you still must supply the animals with the correct fencing, housing, and equipment. A milk stand will forever change your life and keep your back from hurting too. Consider placement of the run in a shed or mini barn. The best setting for the shed or barn is with the closed back side of the shed facing the wind.

What are the benefits to raising miniature goats and other livestock?

Miniature Goats

Nigerian Dwarf, Pygmy, and Dwarf Nubian goats are a few of the breeds of miniature goats. Lesa Wilke, in her book, “Nigerian Goats 101” has a chart showing the different breeds of goats and the milk yield. Nubian goats produce more than other commonly raised breeds but the Nigerian Dwarf is a solid performer in milk production. At a fraction of the size of a full grown Nubian doe, the feed savings and space requirements are much less.

“Nigerian Dwarves produce milk that has an average butterfat and protein content that’s higher than any other dairy goat breed, making it taste milder, sweeter, and creamier. It tastes as good as the best cow’s milk (many think it’s better).” – Lesa Wilke

There are miniature versions of the Nubian breed available, too, although the Nigerian Dwarf breed is more easily found. When seeking a breed for raising miniature goats, checking with your local breeders for their feedback is a good place to start.

Miniature Cattle, Highlands, Dexters, and Lowlines

Raising miniature cattle for both meat and milk can be accomplished on small homesteads. It is important to keep in mind that the same challenges that pertain to full-size cattle will still be in play but on a lesser scale. Cattle are mostly grazing animals. Your full-size cattle will need grazing area or to be fed good quality hay until market size is reached. Miniature breeds of cattle are often browsers as much as grazers. This means they will be happy to do some land clearing for you, eating weeds, and brush as well as the grass. The amount of feed needed will be less with the miniatures and the Highlands will thrive on low-quality brush, because of their heritage as mountain cattle.

Cyndi Aspey, a breeder of miniature Highland cattle on Crazy Lady Farm in Michigan, guides people looking for miniature cattle.  “After much research and thought I selected the miniature Highland breed when we changed farms and operations about 5 years ago. I was looking for a hardy, easy to care for and lean meat breed. This brought me to the Highland breed time and time again.”

“The meat is very lean, very sweet tasting and due to the smaller size of the animal, I believe cuts are more of a healthier portion (size). They have small calves and we have had no calving issues here.  The calves are born with a full coat of hair and most of ours are born in the winter, early spring months, at times a cold miserable time of the year but I believe a better suited time of the year for this breed. The calves are up fast, nursing right away and frolicked joyfully in no time.”

In addition, you can’t argue with the cute factor of the miniature Highland breed! Be prepared if you are squeamish about raising your own meat source.  These miniature cows have a very high cuteness factor.

Dexter Cattle, Lowlines, miniature Jersey and Miniature Zebu are other popular breeds of miniature cattle, recognized by the International Miniature Cattle Breeder Society and Registry. The Dexter breed is an ancient breed from the mountains in Ireland. Dexters were not developed from miniaturizing a standard breed.

Lowlines are short, smaller versions of the standard Black Angus. The meat quality and high yield are present in the smaller, shorter version of the Black Angus breed too.

Just as when raising miniature goats, raising a small herd of miniature cattle can be a dual purpose venture in both food production and land clearing.  Also, keep in mind that goats, sheep, and cattle are herd animals and will not do as well when you only keep one. Prepare to take on two or more of the species you choose to raise.

Pigs, sheep, ducks and chickens all have miniature versions of breeds. Some breeds of pigs are smaller than the standard market hogs we commonly see on farms. KuneKune pigs are becoming more popular. A note of caution is in order. KuneKune pigs grow to be sizable animals. Even the smaller breeds will grow rather large and this should be taken into consideration before attempting to raise “smaller” breeds of pigs. Miniature pigs also include the small pot belly breeds, although those are not commonly raised for meat but are kept as pets.

Miniature Southdown sheep, often referred to as Babydolls, are much smaller than the full sized sheep breeds. They are good foragers and grazers and not very needy in terms of extra care. The standard run in shed and a good low fence, plenty of available water and a vet familiar with sheep, should get you off to a good start with this smaller breed of sheep.

Miniature Poultry

Call Ducks are one variety of miniature ducks. While they can be rather pricey to get started with, bantam chickens are usually more of a bargain.

Bantam chickens are much smaller than a standard size chicken. Coop space, and feed and water consumption are less than the standard chickens also. As with other minis, production is somewhat based on size. Three bantam eggs equal one large egg from a standard breed of chicken. The bantams are prone to broodiness and make very good mother hens. Usually fairly docile, bantam chickens are a good choice for children starting to raise chickens on the homestead. In neighborhoods with limits on the number of chickens you can possess, bantams often count as half or a third of a chicken. This can enable the homesteader to raise more chickens than they would with full-size breeds.

If you are planning on raising miniature goats, or any other miniature breed of livestock, prepare your land as you would for any livestock. You can get by with less land and fewer costs associated with feed. The end result will be a more self-reliant homestead for your family.

Do you raise miniature goats and/or other miniature livestock? If so, let us know in the comments below.

The post Raising Miniature Goats, Cows, Chicken and Sheep appeared first on Countryside Network.

Springtime brings a lot of wonderful things, not the least of which is the return of gardening season. As soon as the weather turns warmer, I head outside to see what plants are starting to sprout. In my perennial gardens it’s always fun to see what survived the winter. Inside my kids love to start seeds. I admit, it’s fascinating to watch the soil and see sprouts start to unfurl from their seeds and take shape as little plants. This year we’re growing a wide variety of basil plants with lots of fun flavors like lemon and lime. I see a lot of pesto in my future!

As you’re planning and planting, enjoy this digital edition full of basics and ideas for inspiration. Have you ever grown kohlrabi? Do you want plants quickly? What’s fast and easy to grow? Find out how to plan ahead for fall harvests of pumpkins and gourds. Learn how to make your soil a powerhouse of nutrients for your growing plants and much more.

Here’s to a fun start to the season and a bounty of harvest when it’s all done.

Happy Gardening!

The post From the Editor, CYS Spring e-edition Gardening appeared first on Countryside Network.

I grew up in an urban part of northern New Jersey where homesteading basics weren’t something that most people were concerned about. Aside from the beautiful gardens, my grandmother grew in her backyard just outside of Newark, homesteading basics were for the “country folk” that lived hours away from us. It never occurred to me that as an adult, my husband and I would be living “in the middle of nowhere” (as my family and friends from downstate refer to our little part of the Adirondack mountains) and find ourselves creating a sweet little homestead.

Part of what attracted us to this property and this land was the potential for learning and implementing homesteading basics. Situated on a few acres, conveniently located twenty miles from the nearest grocery store, and with plenty of space for outdoor gardens and a chicken coop. We also discovered that by leaving an acre of land growing wild in the “backyard”, we created a place where we could grow and sustainably harvest herbs growing outdoors. Not long after we moved in, my husband purchased some small apple trees (we jokingly referred to them as “apple twigs”) and planted them along the property border between us and our neighbors down the hill. We thought of them originally as a privacy screen, but after a few years, we found that we enjoyed growing and harvesting apples from these trees every summer and fall.

Through our journey to learning and practicing homestead basics, we certainly could have used a book like Backyard Homesteading: A Back-to-Basics Guide to Self-Sufficiency by David Toht. This is a big book, full of everything you need to know to learn homesteading basics, beginning with the earliest stages of planning for your homestead, all the way through acquiring and caring for small livestock and harvesting, canning, and preserving all kinds of fruits and vegetables.

Growing Vegetables and Herbs

Backyard Homesteading will provide you with a handy reference book for getting started growing vegetables and herbs. Starting from the ground up (pun intended), we learn about how to evaluate our soil, how to improve soil health before we start planting, how to make basic compost, saving and planting seeds, how to figure out what planting zone we’re in, and treating and preventing weeds, pests, and plant diseases.

Once you have the basics of growing veggies and herbs down, Backyard Homesteading provides us with a great list of commonly grown backyard vegetables. This list provides everything you need to know about when to plant, where to plant, how close together to plant, and when and how to harvest. Even though my husband and I have been gardening at our little homestead for over 13 years, we still found this to be an excellent quick reference guide when planning out our new gardens.

Growing Fruits, Berries, and Nuts

We didn’t plan on growing blackberries in our yard, but we were delighted to discover that they grew wild around our garage, chicken coop, and at the edge of the woods near the back of the property. We spent hours every day during the peak days of summer picking and freezing the plentiful crop of blackberries that our bushes produced. When we decided that we wanted even more berries, we used some of the tips and techniques in Backyard Homesteading to propagate our wild berry bushes.

When we first moved into our home, we planted a row of apple trees along the property line to provide a privacy screen. Our little “apple twigs” as we affectionately referred to them quickly grew into big, beautiful trees. Later on, my husband added a half a dozen cherry trees to our little homestead layout as a birthday gift to me. And while my husband has plenty of knowledge and experience of other types of trees, he found the pruning information in Backyard Homesteading to be very helpful when we were working on creating our own little orchards.

Last but not least, since my husband loves to make his own wine, we obtained 24 cold-hardy grape vines from a supplier that specializes in breeding grapes for the harsh northern climates. Our knowledge of growing and caring for trees didn’t get us too far with these grape vines, but we found everything we needed to know to keep them alive in the pages of Backyard Homesteading. Once we had enough grapes to make a few bottles of our own wine every year, we were also thrilled to discover that our healthy grape leaves could be used for fermenting other foods, too!

Chickens, Goats, and Bees

Of course, our little homestead wouldn’t be complete without the beehives that we brought with us from northern New Jersey. With much more space to spread out, we started our own little apiary to supply us with honey. Drawing on our experience with beekeeping, we learned some new tricks and ideas – we even built a top-bar beehive from the instructions in Backyard Homesteading.

We’ve also been raising our own chickens on our little homestead since 2007, and we were happy to read more about how to raise chickens for eggs in Backyard Homesteading. If we had known then what we do now about raising chickens, things might have gone a little smoother. Getting started with  backyard chickens doesn’t have to be difficult. In fact, in can be a great learning experience for anyone, especially if you live in a more suburban or urban area. If you’re unsure about where to begin, Backyard Homesteading lays it all out for you, including information about how to find out whether or not chickens are allowed in your town, ideas for housing them, choosing a breed (and a purpose) for your flock, and the basics of caring for a happy, healthy flock of chickens.

Next up for our micro-homestead? Goats. After reading through the section about choosing, acquiring, and caring for goats, we’re ready to add another species to our backyard homestead this year! The information in Backyard Homesteading is a wonderful reference for getting started raising goats, with everything I wanted to know about caring for goats once we find a reputable breeder in our area.

For anyone who is interested in simple homesteading with a little time, a little land, and a lot of interest, Backyard Homesteading by David Toht should be the first book you get. We’ve made it an essential addition to our collection of DIY homesteading reference guides.

The post Homesteading Basics – Backyard Homesteading by David Toht appeared first on Countryside Network.

We have exciting news for Countryside readers! If you have a Web-Only or All-Access Countryside subscription, you now get six EXTRA e-editions a year, in addition to the six issues you receive every other month in the mail and/or online. Yup, that’s a new issue every month, including our new Spring 2017 e-edition that will teach you all about planting vegetables at home.

Our Spring 2017 e-edition is NOW AVAILABLE! Inside you’ll discover more than a dozen stories about the best practices for planting vegetables at home. Learn how to get an early start with carrots; six steps to starting and saving heirloom tomatoes; and much more! Subscribe today and look forward to more e-editions as well as every issue online with a new flip book style.

Now is the best time to learn about planting vegetables at home to reap the benefits of a homegrown harvest! Take a look at what’s inside our Spring 2017 e-edition.

+ I Am Countryside — Reader-submitted photos showing different aspects of what homesteading means. Show us what homesteading means to you!

+ Country Conversation & Feedback — Letters from Countryside readers.

In this Issue:

+ Fast-Growing Plants — Perfect plants for impatient gardeners.

+  Get An Early Start With Carrots – Carrots offer versatility and a rainbow of colors.

+  Six Steps to Starting and Saving Heirloom Tomatoes — Summer tastebuds crave tomatoes.

+ Anyone for Okra? — Add this southern staple to your garden.

+ Make Room in Your Garden with Climbers & Crawlers — Space issue? Try climbers and crawlers.

+ Cauliflower in the Garden — Turn to cauliflower as a sidekick or the centerpiece.

+ Kohlrabi: I Grow an Oddball — Neither turnip nor cabbage.

+ Have Eggplant Your Way — How do you like your eggplant?

+ DIY Water Rings — Make watering your plants a snap.

+ You Can’t Beat a Beet — Grow beets in your garden.

+ Time for Summer Squash — Why we love summer squash.

+ Potatoes Offer Healthy Sustainability — Potatoes are easy to grow.

+ Gourds for Farmers and Homesteaders — Decorative, edible … or both?

+ Plant Pumpkins Now for Fall Faces Later —  Give pumpkins plenty of space.

+ Steamed Pumpkin Bread Recipe

+ Countryside Bookstore

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Include #iamcountryside for a chance to have your pics shared on our feed.

Countryside and Small Stock Journal is more than a homesteading magazine, it’s a network where people who are homesteading today share a variety of experiences and ideas about simple homesteading. In every issue, you’ll learn about practical solutions for growing and preserving your own food, raising chickens and small livestock, and managing a thriving homestead in a rural or urban setting.

Never miss another great issue with practical tips on homesteading today! Subscribe to Countryside and Small Stock Journal today.

The post Spring e-edition: Planting Vegetables at Home appeared first on Countryside Network.