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Get to Know Pigeons

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Pigeons are remarkable for so many reasons. A true cosmopolitan, long after humans have left this Earth, only cockroaches, rats, and pigeons will remain. Humans and pigeons have been sharing living space as far back as 3000 BC, in Mesopotamia, modern Iraq.

Did you know that pigeons mate for life and both sexes care for the young? They have the ability to fly at altitudes up to 6,000 feet, and at speeds between 50 and 70 miles per hour. The fastest recorded speed is 92.5 miles per hour. These are just a few of many amazing pigeon facts!

Countless park goers across the world feed thousands of feral pigeons daily. Many members of different religions including Muslims, Hindus, and Sikhs feed pigeons for spiritual reasons. Some older Sikhs will ritualistically feed pigeons to honor Guru Gobind Singh, a high priest who was renowned as a friend to pigeons. I know I couldn’t resist sitting down in the middle of Venice’s historic St. Mark’s Square to befriend a flock of pigeons. Covering myself with seed, I couldn’t stop smiling, as the pigeons transformed me into a human perch.

With so many types of pigeons to choose from, adding a flock to your backyard can add a fun source of entertainment, income, or food to any homestead.

pigeon-facts

In addition to a range of colors, pigeons have been bred for shows, racing and as a source of protein.

Pigeon Basics

How Long Do Pigeons Live?
Domestic pigeons can live between 10 and 15 years. Although pigeons can become sexually mature as early as five months, many breeders recommended waiting for the birds to reach one year of age.

What Do Pigeons Eat? 
If considering keeping pigeons you may be wondering, what do pigeons eat? Pigeons are granivores, eating seeds and cereals. Many pigeon feeds include cereals, corn, wheat, dried peas, barley, and rye. Depending on the actively level of your bird, different protein percentages are commercially available. Pigeons will also benefit from fresh greens, berries, fruit, and an occasional insect.

How Do Pigeons Breed?
The coupling ritual starts with the male characteristically cooing and puffing out his neck. The female will fly or walk short distances to entice the male to follow her. Once she is satisfied she will accept offerings of food and position herself to be mounted.

Eight to 12 days after mating and accepting food gifts from her mate, the hen will usually lay two white eggs. Pigeons will breed year-round and will lay more eggs before the first clutch has left the nest.

“Keeping the number of birds under control is key to health and quality and successful racing,” says Deone Roberts, Sport Development Manager of the American Racing Pigeon Union. “To have the desired results in racing, the flyer/breeder needs to set down his/her goals.”

Those goals will influence the type of stock selected and the kinds of pairings you will make. Controlling the times of mating is also important if you plan on racing or showing birds.

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pigeon-facts

Managing pigeon breeding will allow your birds to be ready for a show.

Organizations such as the American Racing Pigeon Union are for people who love animals, fellowship, and friendly competition.

“We have a staffed national office to serve member needs such as leg bands and diplomas, race figuring software, educational materials, beginner mentor program, zoning assistance for ordinance changes, and promotion assistance,” says Roberts.

In addition to racing pigeons, Roberts says that there are hundreds of breeds of pigeons and it seems more are created through selection for specific traits. Most are for show. Some are for performance, such as the roller or tumbler breeds.

pigeon-facts

Budapest pigeon, with their comical eyes, were developed around 1907.

Growing up I had a small flock of rollers and tumblers. After a few years or raising them, and enjoying their aerial acrobatics, I attended a pigeon show to expand my collection. I purchased a pair of runt pigeons. These ironically named pigeons can weigh up to 3.5 pounds! They are mostly raised for show or squab meat. The seller said I could let them free range in the yard like chickens. After a week of keeping them in the coop to get their bearings, I let them out to explore the lawn. As soon as the door opened, the birds took off straight toward the horizon. That was a sad day. Lesson learned. Not all pigeons should be expected to return if they are released from their coop.

In ancient Mesopotamia, sailors would release pigeons — and ravens — from their ships. They would track the birds to orient themselves toward land. A thousand years later, you have the story of Noah in the Old Testament. Around this time you also start seeing pigeons featured in sculptures, jewelry, and hair needles.

The Phoenicians distributed white pigeons throughout the Mediterranean around 1000 BC. The Greeks gave pigeons to children as toys, used the squabs as a food source, and used their manure to fertilize crops.

Some pigeon lofts, situated next to Roman houses, could maintain 5,000 birds. The Romans created tube feeding and watering systems for their birds and started selectively breeding for desirable traits. They bred birds that flew strange patterns, could find their way home, were large enough to eat, and had ornamental plumage.

Today, schools raise pigeons to connect kids with history, nature and to empower them with life skills. “These projects are developing increased interest in science, math, computer technologies, health, and nutrition,” says Roberts. “When children have pigeons, they connect with nature. They are outside and away from computers, iPads, and the television.”

pigeon-facts

Keeping pigeons is an ageless hobby. Photo by Gary Weir

Roberts reminds us that raising pigeons is not just a youth activity. “Likewise, the hobby provides enjoyment for retirees in their golden years.”

“Our members come from a variety of backgrounds with regard to education, income, and ethnicity. It is not unusual for individuals to combine two hobbies that include more animals, such as a hobby farmer, that may also have poultry.”

“What we have is an organization of members that gives to the community and gives to their own. Combine that with the love of a bird. There’s not much better than that,” says Roberts.

The post Get to Know Pigeons appeared first on Countryside Network.


Book Preview: Backyard Chickens Beyond the Basics

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Backyard Chickens Beyond the Basics explores the realities of raising a flock for eggs — and entertainment, of course! From odd eggs and molting to chicken behavior, feeding and preparing for the seasons, poultry expert and editor of Backyard Poultry magazine and Countryside Small Stock & Journal, Pam Freeman takes on many subjects that aren’t covered in beginner books. Her practical advice makes the complicated easy to understand, and Pam’s experiences give deeper insight into the workings of a backyard flock.

Chapter 1: Expanding Your Flock
Chapter 2: Flock Behavior
Chapter 3: Life with a Rooster
Chapter 4: All About Eggs
Chapter 5: Chicken (and Egg) Health
Chapter 6: Predators
Chapter 7: Feeding Your Chickens
Chapter 8: Chicken-Keeping Through the Seasons
Chapter 9: Coop Truth

“In my 30 years as a poultry veterinarian, I have not seen a more practical, well-written and easy-to-read book for backyard poultry owners. This book is an essential resource.” – Dr. Sherrill Davison, Director of the Laboratory of Avian Medicine and Pathology, Penn Vet

Excerpt From Chapter 1

Buying chicks from a feed store couldn’t be easier. Each spring they’re readily available in local stores across the country. I find it’s best to get the chicks as early in their lifespan as possible. By doing this, you get more time to bond with them. I’ve found this results in adult backyard chickens that are much more likely to be friendly and ready to interact with humans. (This is especially important for families with children.) It’s good to stay in contact with your local feed store in the spring so you know when they’ll be getting their chick deliveries. That way you can swoop in and buy the chicks at the earliest possible time.

People often ask me what to look for in feed store chicks. I advise looking for chicks that are active and alert. I check to see that they’re eating and drinking. I look for down feathers that are clean and well groomed. I look to see that their rumps are clean and free of poop. I also check their extremities. Are their legs straight? Can they walk well? Are their beaks straight and not scissored (crossed)? Do they have clear eyes?

A sick chick will be hunched over, or sometimes they’ll stand still and sway with their eyes closed. However, be careful about this as healthy chicks need to sleep as well, and they like to get comfortable when they nap. So you may see a chick that’s perfectly healthy but curled up, sleeping or for that matter, all spread out dozing. Don’t confuse natural sleeping with being sick! Here are a few additional tips from a feed store chick-buying veteran.

  • If the feed store is putting your chicks in a box, have them line the bottom with some clean shavings. Normally there’s an open bag nearby your box. This makes the slippery box surface a lot less slippery and messy — and it gives your chicks a comfortable ride home.
  • Although the bins at the feed store are marked pullets (girls) and straight run (boys and girls), this does not always hold true. First, hatcheries are not 100 percent accurate in their sexing. So there could be some roosters in there from the start. Also, a well-meaning employee or customer may set a chick back in the wrong brooder after looking at it. So you may end up with a surprise or two in a few months!
  • Make sure to double-check your chicks once they’re in your box. Most feed stores don’t allow returns. So, if there’s a problem with your birds, the time to address it is right then. Once you walk out fo the store, you have to live with what you’ve got.

The Pecking Order from Chapter 2

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Besides pecking, there are other ways chickens work out their order and show dominance. Once chicken might challenge another by puffing up her chest, standing tall, and flapping her wings. The challenged bird can then either choose to show its dominance or back down.

Egg Size and Grading from Chapter 4

Egg scales didn’t gain popularity until World Wars I and II. Until then, egg weighing was done as a way to select eggs for hatching. But during the wars, the U.S. War Department bought eggs to feed the troops and paid for them based on their size. Egg weight equaled cash and created the need for scales. During that time, egg scale advances and production were at a high.

 

BACKYARD CHICKENS: BEYOND THE BASICS
AUTHOR Pam Freeman
PHOTOGRAPHER Chris Cone with contributions from Pam Freeman
PUBLISHER Voyageur Press
PAGE COUNT 192
CHAPTERS 9
WHERE TO BUY countrysidenetwork.com/shop

The post Book Preview: Backyard Chickens Beyond the Basics appeared first on Countryside Network.

Drop Spindle Spinning: Making and Using Your First Spindle

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By Angela Hammer – I’ve always liked making things with my hands. I learned how to crochet years ago, so spinning became the next logical step for me to take. Why buy yarn when you can make it yourself? I found a booklet for the Michigan Fiber Festival which described several classes. I paid my money, attended spinning for beginners class, and I was hooked. I knew I had to get my hands on a drop spindle.

The only problem was that I was a college student with no extra cash, and couldn’t afford a $300 – $400 spinning wheel. So I put my dreams away for about a year. The following summer I met a lady who ran a spinning shop. About $20 later, I owned a drop spindle and some fiber. Now I was able to spin to my heart’s content. Since that time I have become a member of the Michigan Fiber Festival and work with a group of younger volunteers that coordinates and leads the children’s activities at the Festival.

By all means, I am not the final authority on spinning. I’m still learning new things every day, just like anyone who first approaches spinning for beginners. This article is an effort to teach the basics as a way of encouraging further study into the world of fiber arts.

Fiber

We need to take a brief look at fiber before we tackle the basics of spinning for beginners. Fiber comes from many different sources. For spinning, we often think of sheep’s wool. Other fiber sources include alpaca, llama, cotton, and even dog. For now, we will just look at sheep’s wool.

Wool can be purchased in two basic forms: unprocessed and processed. The fleece that is sheared from a sheep is unprocessed wool. Unprocessed basically means in its raw form. There are three types of processed wools: raving, batts, and top. Roving, sometimes called a sliver, is a long continuous strand of carded wool. Batts are thick rectangles made of layers of carded wool. Top is like roving but the short and broken fibers have been removed leaving the long fibers lying parallel to each other. When giving tips on spinning for beginners, I recommend starting with roving.

Now that we have talked about the forms of wool, we need to move onto the types of wool. Forget the common misconception that all wool is scratchy because it isn’t. Some breeds such as Lincoln, Cotswold, and Suffolk sheep do produce coarse fibers but the fleeces from Merino, Rambouillet, and Shetland are soft. A medium wool, such as Targhee, Jacob, Corriedale, and Dorset, is ideal for spinning for beginners. At the end of this spinning for beginners’ article are some resources that have wool for sale and some resources that will process your fiber into roving for you to use.

How to Make a Drop Spindle

The following directions are for two types of drop spindles: top whorl and bottom whorl. They are not beautiful, but they are practical. Here’s a tip: Don’t invest a lot of money until you are sure this is the thing for you. The one you make is up to you.

Drop Spindle Materials

1” wooden toy wheel

12” dowel

Sharpen one end of the dowel into a blunt point. Sand it smooth. Sand and slightly round the other end of the dowel.

Put the sharp end of the dowel through the hole in the wheel, leaving about two inches of dowel below the wheel. Glue into place and let dry.

This is a completed bottom whorl spindle. (Fig. 1)

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The following instructions are for making a top whorl spindle:

Sharpen one end of the 12” dowel. Don’t sharpen to a point. Sand it for a smooth, rounded, blunt end. Sand and slightly round the edges to the flat end.

Put the flat end of the dowel through the hole in the wheel, leaving about one inch of dowel above the wheel. Glue into place and let dry.

After the glue has sufficiently dried, using a drill or nail, make a pilot hole in the middle of the flat end of the dowel. This is to prevent the wood from splitting when the cup hook is put in. Take the small cup hook and screw it into place.

If you want to, you can sand the part of the dowel above the whorl so it tapers to the edges of the cup hook.

This is a completed top whorl spindle. (Fig. 2)

drop-spindle

Important Construction Tips

The most important things to consider when making or buying a drop spindle are balance and weight. Always check for these when buying or making spindles.

When checking for balance, ask yourself these questions: Does the spindle wobble a lot? Does it spin well or is it sluggish? Does it spin freely? Weight is the other important element to look for in a drop spindle. Heavy spindles (over four ounces) work best to create thick, bulky yarn while light weight spindles (less than one ounce) work best to create thin, fine yarns. A medium weight spindle (around two ounces) is a good all-purpose spindle, enabling you to create a full spectrum of yarn from fine, lace-weight to thick, bulky-weight.

Spinning for beginners tip: The most important thing to remember when choosing a drop spindle is – do you like it?

Spinning for Beginners: How to Spin

Before one actually begins putting twist into the fiber, drafting should be practiced. Drafting is the process of pulling the fibers of the fiber supply out to get them ready to be twisted. To learn this process, we will use the “inch-worm technique.” To do this, remember these three words: pinch, pull and release. These words, in a nutshell, are the basic drafting process.

The following directions are written specifying certain hands to be used. You can interchange the directions so the right hand means left and left hand means right if you find it easier to do it that way.

To get started, throw the roving over your shoulder so it lies on your shoulder with one end in your hand and the other behind your back.

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Take the end of roving that is in your hands and “pinch” the end of it with your right hand. (Fig. 4)

After you have drafted, keep your left hand holding the fiber. Now with your right hand “release” the fibers. You have just completed the “inch-worm technique.” (Figure. 5)

To keep drafting, continue to “pinch” the fiber at the point of twist, “pull: back with the opposite hand, drafting the fibers to the thickness desired; and “release” the yarn with the first hand, allowing the twist to enter the drafted fibers.

Practice this technique a couple of times until you are comfortable with it. Now it’s time to put it into real practice.

To Spin With a Bottom Whorl Spindle

Take a two-foot piece of yarn and tie it around the shaft above the whorl. This is called your leader. Turn the spindle clockwise a couple of times to wind the leader around the base of the shaft.

Continue turning the spindle but barber pole the yarn up the shaft towards the top. Secure the yarn about one inch from the top of the shaft with a half hitch. (Fig. 6 & Fig. 7)

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drop-spindle drop-spindle

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The easiest way to attach the leader and the fiber together is to knot them.

To begin the twist, hold on to the knot that was just made with your let hand. Grasp the shaft towards the top with the right hand and twist it clockwise. Be sure to give it a good twist.

Once there is a good amount of twist in the yarn, set the spindle down on a table or chair or the ground. This will stop the spindle from spinning the opposite direction.

Now begin to “pinch, pull, release.” Pinch the knot with your right hand, pull back on the fibers with your left hand, and release with the right hand. (Figure. 3, 4, & 5)

You should see the twist enter the drafted fibers. You have just made yarn. Congratulations!

Continue the “pinch, pull, release” process until you notice that the yarn isn’t twisting very well during the “release” part of the process.

Pinch the yarn at this point with the left hand and twist the spindle clockwise with the right hand.

Repeat steps 6 to 10 as often as needed.

You have probably noticed that your arms are only so long and they haven’t grown any longer. Now you need to wind the yarn you have made onto the spindle. Unhook the half hitch and unwind the barber pole effect. Turning the spindle clockwise, wind the yarn onto the shaft creating a cone (wide bottom, small top). Leave enough yarn to barber pole up the shaft and make a half hitch at the top with at least three inches to spare.

Continue with steps 6 through 12 until the spindle is full or you run out of fiber.

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drop-spindle drop-spindle

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(I suggest the process of putting a lot of twist into the yarn and setting down the spindle for a good reason When you are just starting to spin it takes enough concentration to remember “pinch, pull release” without having to figure out how to add “twist” to the equation. When you feel that you are ready, go ahead and add “twist” and don’t worry about setting the spindle down unless it’s needed.)

Spinning With a Top Whorl Spindle

Many of the processes are similar with a top whorl as with a bottom whorl, while some others require a slightly different explanation. In the beginning, spinning with this type of spindle works better sitting down.

Tie a two-foot piece of yarn onto the shaft under the whorl. This is your leader.

Repeat step 2 in the Bottom Whorl instructions. (Hereafter referred to as BW)

Bring the leader yarn up over the edge of the whorl and up to the hook. Pull the yarn through the hook so that when the spindle is turned in a clockwise direction the yarn stays caught in the hook and doesn’t come undone.

Repeat step 4 in BW.
To begin the twist hold the know in the left hand and roll the shaft of the spindle with the right hand rapidly up the right leg from knee to upper thigh and let it dangle in front of you until the spindle stops spinning.

Repeat step 6 in BW.

Repeat step 7 in BW.

Repeat step 8 in BW.

Repeat step 9 in BW.

Pinch the yarn at the point of twist with the let hand and roll the shaft of the spindle rapidly up the right leg from knee to upper thigh, letting it dangle until the spindle stops spinning.*

Repeat steps 6 through 10 as often as needed.

When you run out of arm length, it’s time to wind on the yarn. Unhook the yarn from the hook and rotate the spindle in a clockwise direction winding the yarn as the shaft rotates. Wind the yarn on the shaft in a cone form (wide at the top, small at the bottom). Leave enough length to wrap the yarn up over the whorl and through the hook.

Continue steps 6 through 12 until the spindle is full or you run out of fiber.

Joining More Fibers

If you have a break in the yarn or you need to add new fiber, the process is basically the same for both. It works best to set the spindle down so the spindle doesn’t untwist.

Be sure the fiber you are adding to doesn’t have any twist in it. If it does have twist, you need to tease the end of the fiber open for about two inches of length.

Take the new fiber that is being added and overlap the new and the old. (Fig. 8) Hold the end of the new fiber and the point of twist of the old fiber in the right hand. Pull back on the fibers with the left hand. This blends the fibers together.

Three Truths of Spinning for Beginners

After you have been spinning a little while, the “Three truths of spinning for beginners” should be very evident.

  1. If you don’t twist the drafted fibers enough, your yarn will drift apart and break.
  2. If you twist the drafted fibers too much, the twist will travel into the fiber supply, engulfing the whole mass and preventing further drafting.
  3. The fewer number of fibers you draft, and thus the smaller the diameter of the yarn, the more twist you will need to hold it together.

Plying The Yarn

The first yarn that you have spun is called a single because it is a single ply. Most of the yarn you buy in the stores are three-ply or four-ply, meaning that these are three or four singles plied together into its present yarn form. You, too, can ply your singles into a plied yarn. Please note that you do not have to ply the yarn to use it. If you choose to ply, this section will help you do so.

Most hand spinners create two-ply yarns. To do this you need to spin two spindles full of yarn. When you get ready to take the cones of yarn off the spindles, you can do it at least tow different ways. One way is to slide the cones off onto knitting needles. Using a shoebox, poke holes in the sides and put the knitting needles through the holes with the cones of singles inside the shoebox. This is a simple form of a “Lazy Kate.” (Fig. 9) The other way is to wind each spindle of singles off into balls. When you get ready to ply, put each ball of yarn into a jar or bowl. The balls will roll all over the place and get tangled if you don’t try to confine them.

Now we are ready to ply. Prepare the drop spindle the same as before but instead of fiber you will have to strands of yarn to attach to the leader. Knot as before. The important thing to remember is that the spindle, when plying, will spin in the opposite direction. If you spun the singles clockwise, when plied they must be plied counterclockwise. With the bottom whorl spindle twist it counterclockwise with your fingers. Top whorl spindles are rolled down the outside of the right leg form upper thigh to knew to get a counterclockwise spin.” Give the spindle a good twist and begin pinching, pulling, and releasing. You will notice that you can pull back further when plying. Continue plying and winding onto the spindle until the spindle fills or you run out of yarn.

drop-spindle

Finishing The Yarn

Whether you have created a single or a plied yarn, finishing the yarn is still necessary.

Winding off is when you take the yarn off the spindle to get it ready to set the twist. You can use your leg to wind the yarn off the spindle. Bend your leg and wrap the yarn from knee to foot and back to knee again. Do this until the spindle is empty. Then take four pieces of contrasting yarn and tie them loosely in four different places around the yarn. Tie them with a figure-8 tie like the figures shown. (Fig. 10)

To set the twist, take the skein of yarn and put it into warm water. You can do this in a five-gallon bucket, sink, or wash basin. Always run the water into the container first and then set the skein gently into the water. Running the water onto the skein can cause it to felt and if you want to use the yarn to knit or crochet, you don’t want it to do this.

Place the skein on top of the water and gently push it into the water. Let it soak for about 10 minutes. Take it out of the water and gently squeeze the water out. Do not wring the skein. Then put the skein inside a towel and squeeze some more water out. The skein will need to be hung up to air dry completely. Hang the skein over the doorknob, a drying rack, or a shady part of an outdoor clothesline.

When the yarn is completely dry, twist it into a skein for storage. Grab an end of this big hank of yarn with each hand and twist the skein until it is firm. (Fig. 11) Fold it in the middle and watch the skein twist back on itself. (Fig. 12) Take one end and tuck it through the loop on the other end. (Fig. 13) The skein is ready for storage. (Fig. 14)

To Use The Skein

To use the yarn in the skein, unhook the loops and let the twist out of the skein. Find the ends of the yarn and untie them. Using either end, wind the yarn into a ball, and you are ready to go.

A Few Parting Words

By learning the basics of spinning for beginners, you have embarked on a unique journey. It is a journey I hope you will enjoy. The first yarn you create will be bumpy with thick and thin spots. But it will be beautiful because you made it. Practice does make perfect and with time the yarn you create will be almost flawless. So take a deep breath and start the journey into the world of spinning. I’m so glad you can join in this exciting journey.

* A top whorl spindle can be rolled on either leg but in different directions. Use Figure 15 to help you figure out which direction to roll the spindle depending on which let you choose.

Originally published in Countryside May / June 2001 and regularly vetted for accuracy.

The post Drop Spindle Spinning: Making and Using Your First Spindle appeared first on Countryside Network.

Selling Eggs as a Business and More!

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Our June/July 2017 issue is NOW AVAILABLE, featuring everything about eggs — from selling eggs to finding the perfect chicken breed for maximum egg production to understanding duck egg color. Subscribe today!

In this issue, Erin Phillips helps you formulate a plan for selling eggs as a business with specifics on marketing, storage, and labeling. Which chicken breeds are best to maximize egg production? This issue has the answer and more must-know information about raising chickens for eggs. Also, tips on how to get started on the poultry show circuit, pigeons 101, high-tech gadgets for the hen house and much more! Looking for a summertime treat? Your chickens will love Lisa Steele’s watermelon soup with mint, and you won’t want to miss Rita Heikenfeld’s recipe for picnic chicken prepared two ways.

Find all this and more in your June/July 2017 issue of Backyard Poultry magazine! Also, with this issue, you can view it as a new flip book style!

In this Issue:

A Business Lesson Learned Raising Chickens for Meat — An inspiring story of childhood entrepreneurs.

Eggs as a Business — Your backyard eggs can be yummy and profitable!

Top 10 Chicken Breeds for an Egg Business — A guide to the best layers.

Tips for Buying and Selling at a Poultry Swap Meet — Make the day a success


Never miss another great issue like this one! Get a wealth of homesteading knowledge delivered to your doorstep, desktop, and even tablet! Subscribe today to Backyard Poultry, Countryside, Dairy Goat Journal or sheep!


Get to Know Pigeons — Part one in our series on these useful birds.

Recipes: Picnic Chicken — Make perfect fried chicken from your stovetop or oven.

Showing Poultry 101 — Learn how to get into the poultry show circuit.

Want Colored Duck Eggs? Think Genetics! — Achieve an array of colored eggs with ducks.

Add High Tech to the Henhouse — Bring your coop into the computer age.

Watermelon Soup with Mint — A cool treat your flock will love.

Why Are My Chickens Laying Soft Eggs? — Answers to this common summer problem.

More Great Resources, Stories, and Tips in Each Issue:

Photo Essay 12/3: Chickens Bring Peace of Mind After a Long Day
From The Editor 12/3: Chilling With My Flock
Backyard Poultry Bookstore
Poultry Talk: Ask Our Experts
Coming Events
Book Preview — Backyard Chickens: Beyond the Basics
And much more!

Backyard Poultry magazine is your best source for information on how to raise healthier, more productive backyard chickens, ducks, turkeys, geese and even keeping guinea fowl. Whether you live on a farm, call a suburban neighborhood home, or are mastering poultry farming in an urban environment, we have the how-to guides and tips.

Never miss another great issue! Subscribe to Backyard Poultry today and get the June/July 2017 issue and many more to come.

Are you interested in selling eggs? Share your questions and comments below!

The post Selling Eggs as a Business and More! appeared first on Countryside Network.

Cayuga Duck Breed Spotlight

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By Holly Fuller – Cayuga ducks are a threatened breed. These beautiful, iridescent, green feathered ducks are great for their flavorful meat, egg production, show quality, and their ability to make great pets. Their medium size (6-8 lbs.) and quiet quack make them an excellent choice for a backyard duck.

Cayugas appear black until the light hits them, then they show their beautiful green color. Their bills, shanks and feet are usually black. As Cayugas age they start to get white feathers, which can eventually take the place of most of their colored feathers, and their shanks and feet may take on an orange hue.

The biggest challenge in Cayuga duck care is thwarting the efforts of their predators, and every backyard has a few. Cats, mink, weasels, raccoons, and owls will all eat ducks if they are given the chance. Cayugas must be brought inside a building or enclosed in a tightly covered pen at night. A raccoon can kill and eat a duck through 1″chicken wire, so the bottom 30″ of fence must be ½” wire to protect them.

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Cayugas also need protection from hot sun; shade must be provided when temperatures reach 70° Fahrenheit. They love to swim, so a wading pool is nice as long as the water is kept clean and the surrounding areas are not allowed to get muddy. Ducks can, however, live well when provided with nothing but fresh drinking water; it must be deep enough to cover their bills so they can use it to clear their nostrils. Water needs to be replaced at least twice a week. Cayugas can forage for their own food when given enough space (1/4 acre for five ducks). Where space is limited a commercial duck feed is needed. Ducks need small gravel or coarse sand to help them digest their food.

Well-kept Cayugas produce between 100 and 150 eggs per year. The first eggs of the season are black and lighten to gray, blue, green and even white as the season goes on. Cayugas are hardy and can produce a large quantity of offspring despite cold temperatures. Unlike most duck breeds, Cayugas will brood their own eggs which hatch in 28 days.

Cayugas have a quiet, docile temperament. When they are hand raised, they make wonderful, tame pets. With quality care, they live 8 to 12 years. Cayugas are a welcome, colorful addition to any backyard flock.

Cayuga Article References

Books
Websites
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Cayuga ducks have an almost iridescent greenish hue in the feathers but this coloring fades with age to a nearly gray-white color. Photo courtesy of American Livestock Breeds Conservancy (ALBC).

 

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Photo by Samantha Durfee

 

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Cayuga ducklings look nearly black, with black bills, shanks, and feet. Photo by Angela Szidik

 

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Cayuga duck eggs are a deep brown, nearly black color. The gestational period for ducks is 28 days (except Muscovy ducks, which is 35), while chickens hatch in 21 days. Photo by Angela Szidik

The History of the Cayuga Duck

By Jeannette Beranger – The Cayuga duck is an American duck breed that is as beautiful as it is mysterious in its origins. With its striking beetle green color, there are few birds that catch the eye as the Cayuga. According to local lore, this breed was developed from a pair of wild ducks that a miller in Duchess County, New York, caught on his mill pond in 1809. This report as it turns out seems to be historically inaccurate and is actually an accounting of the Gadwall duck as reported in the Birds of America by John J. Audubon in 1843. It is possible that Cayuga ducks could have originated from a population of wild ducks from the region but there is currently no definitive evidence found to substantiate the hypothesis.

Another accounting of the source of the Cayuga duck breed is told by Mr. R. Teebay of Fulwood, Preston, Lancashire, UK in the 1885 publication The Book of Poultry by Lewis Wright. Teebay states that the Cayuga duck resembles (if it was not identical) to an English black duck breed commonly found in Lancashire in the 1860s. He believed that the Cayuga breed may have originated from this stock. He notes that the English black duck had since disappeared in Lancashire as it was replaced in popularity by the Aylesbury duck by the 1880s. His view on the Cayuga’s origin was supported by an unnamed source Teebay references in the book. The source was an acquaintance who hunted and trapped extensively the Cayuga region and was familiar with both domestic breeds. The hunter, having extensive knowledge of the local wild ducks, supported the theory that the Cayuga was derived from the Black duck of Lancashire as opposed to originating from a local wild duck population.

What is certain about the history of the breed is that John S. Clark introduced the ducks he attained in Orange County to Cayuga County in the Finger Lakes region of New York circa 1840. Clark noted at the time that occasionally ducks would develop a “top knot” on their heads. This is further substantiated by Luther Tucker, editor of The Cultivator, in 1851. In the Finger Lakes region Clark’s ducks soon became popular as a table bird and were noted for their ability as layers of numerous eggs. The ducks were named “Cayuga” after the native people of that area. By 1874 the Cayuga duck was accepted into the American Poultry Association’s Standard of Perfection. The breed was raised in large numbers on duck farms in New York until the 1890s when the Pekin duck came to dominate the duckling market in the big cities.

While ducks do not need a pond, they do need a water source deep enough to submerge their heads to clean their nostrils and eyes. Photo courtesy of ALBC.
While ducks do not need a pond, they do need a water source deep enough to submerge their heads to clean their nostrils and eyes. Photo courtesy of ALBC.

On the Farm

The meat of the Cayuga is reputed to be of excellent taste and fine quality but the carcass can be difficult to clean because of their dark feathering. Some resolve this problem by skinning the ducks rather than plucking. Their eggs, which can number up to 150 per breeding season, can be used for general eating and baking purposes. Here’s an interesting egg fact: The whites of duck eggs are usually firmer than the whites of chicken eggs and make delicious rich desserts.

When choosing stock for your farm, a fault to avoid with this breed is small size. These medium class ducks should have males that reach eight pounds and females seven pounds as mature adults. The beetle green color is most striking in young birds and as the bird’s age, white feathers typically begin to appear on the body after they go through their first breeding season. Overall, the Cayuga is an easy keeping docile breed that will be a beautiful addition to any farm.

A special thanks to Jonathan Thompson of Great Britain for helping ALBC bring to light some of the historical inaccuracies surrounding the origin of the Cayuga duck. For more information on the Cayuga contact American Livestock Breeds Conservancy: albc@albc-usa.org or visit www.albc-usa.org.

Originally published in Backyard Poultry April / May 2010 and regularly vetted for accuracy.

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12 Benefits of Learning How to Crochet

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By Cathy Myers Bullard – “Chain four, join, and turn.” What artful activity relieves stress, inspires creativity, and promotes well-being all while being fun and functional? The answer: crochet. Discover the benefits of learning how to crochet.

Let’s start with the basics. What does “crochet” mean? Crochet is defined as the process of hooking thread or yarn to create fabric. Crochet is the French word for hook. In its infancy, crochet was most likely made using fingers. The exact origin of the art of crochet is sketchy, but many archeologists believe the practice to have started as long ago as 1500 B.C. as a type of nun’s work. Early crochet hooks were made from anything at hand including sticks, bone, or bent iron shoved into cork handles.

There are three main theories for the origin of crochet. Some believe that its beginnings can be traced to the Arab trade route, originating in Arabia and spreading to Tibet and then Spain as well as other Mediterranean countries. The second theory places crochet in South America where it was used as adornment in a primitive tribe’s puberty ritual. The third notes the use of crochet in China where early examples of dolls were worked entirely in crochet.

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Solid evidence to support the exact beginnings of crochet, however, is elusive. There are references to a type of “chained trimming” made around 1580. This trim was then sewn onto fabric as an ornamental braid and women joined braided strands producing a lace fabric. During the Renaissance, women crocheted several strands of thread producing fabrics similar to lace.

The main theory behind the origin of crochet seems to be that it began when women realized that chains worked in a pattern would hang together without background fabric. French tambour evolved into what was referred to as “crochet in the air.” The lace was fine, worked with small sewing needles formed into hooks.

Crochet began turning up in Europe in the early 1800s. The work was given a great boost when Mlle. Riego do la Branchardiere published patterns, which could be easily duplicated. She published many pattern books giving millions of women

During the Great Irish Potato Famine in the mid-1800s, Ursuline sisters there began teaching local women and children thread crochet using bent needles in corked handles. The Irish lace these locals created was then shipped to and sold in America and Europe. The sold items were probably instrumental in help- ing many Irish families survive the famine.

Crochet became elevated to an art form when Queen Victoria learned to crochet and continues to evolve and develop today. Thread work gave way to crochet yarn in the mid-twentieth century and the art of crochet exploded into afghans, shawls, sweaters, booties, potholders, dolls, and into almost anything the crafter could conceive.

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Beautiful crocheted afghans are also practical.

The Benefits of Learning How to Crochet

1. The calming repetitive movement, along with the beautiful yarn colors and textures work together to produce a soothing effect.

2. Working through the various stitches keeps the fingers nimble which is especially important to arthritis sufferers.

3. Crochet can be worked while watching television, traveling, or carrying on a conversation.

4. Crochet is portable and can be taken anywhere.

5. The hobby is cost effective.

6. Crochet, because of the constant varying in focus, keeps the eye muscles toned.

7. Crochet is a great outlet for creativity and helps stave off Alzheimer’s.

8. Crochet is an inexpensive way to produce clothing and décor as well as gifts. Learn how to crochet a scarf, hat, gloves… the possibilities are endless.

9. The hobby provides a sense of accomplishment when a project is completed.

10. Crochet adds a sense of balance to the stress of a high-tech, fast- paced lifestyle.

11. The rhythmic repetitive acts involved in crochet help prevent and manage stress, pain, and depression, which in turn strengthens the body’s immune system.

12. Learning how to knit, how to crochet and how to create needle-work have proven effective in long-term pain management.

In a four-year study ending in 2009, physiotherapist Betsan Corkhill collected evidence and launched a collaborative study with scientists at several universities on the role of crochet in health. According to pain specialist Monica Baird, the action of repetitive motion in crochet changes brain chemistry, decreasing stress hormones and increasing feel-good hormones, serotonin, and dopamine.

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Many scientists further believe the steady, rhythmic movements activate the same areas in the brain as meditation and yoga. Dr. Herbert Bendon, Director of the Institute for Mind, Body Medicine at Massachusetts General Hospital and Associate Professor of Medicine at Harvard Medical School noted that crochet and knitting is one method to create a “relaxation response” in the body. Relaxation has been shown to lower blood pressure, heart rate, and help prevent illness. Crochet and knitting have a calming effect useful in the treatment of anxiety, asthma, and panic attacks. The repetitive movements have also been effective in the management of disruptive behavior and ADHD in children.

“Chain four, join, and turn.”

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Crocheted doiles and dishcloths

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The words signal the beginning of a new project, and the shiny hook moves in and out, twisting and pulling the thread into a smooth design. Whether following instructions from a pattern or creating original fiber art, the crafter anticipates the beauty of the finished product. Satisfaction and a sense of accomplishment arrive with the project’s completion. Crochet is an easy, inexpensive way to enrich one’s life and enjoy better health in the process. Good luck learning how to crochet!

Originally published in Countryside July / August 2011 and regularly vetted for accuracy.

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Kids and Coopworths: Sheep Camp at Owens Farm

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By Caroline Owens

What do you get when you combine summer, kids, and Coopworth sheep? Sheep Camp!

The 1st of February is a critically important day for Owens Farm in Sunbury, Pennsylvania. That’s when Sheep Camp registration opens up for the general public, previous campers having had an Earlybird Registration in late January. All available spots will be snapped up before lunch, and another season of Sheep Camp will be underway. In fact, my husband David and I have been offering this program since 2004, and every week has been full with a waiting list.

Sheep Camp is a week-long day camp for children ages seven to 12, held on a working Katahdin and Coopworth sheep farm. Each camper has his or her own lamb for the week with which to learn about animal science, fiber arts, and sustainable farming. Sessions run Monday through Friday from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. during selected weeks in June and July. The number of campers is limited to 15 to assure a high level of personal attention.

Program & Activities

The curriculum balances hands-on lessons and games with lecture and demonstration. Fundamental concepts and favorite activities form the backbone of the program, with new topics rotated through to keep things fresh for returning campers.

The first and most important day is when the kids meet each other and their lambs. The lambs are freshly weaned and must be taught to lead. Many of the campers have never touched a sheep before, let alone had to train it. This simple skill encompasses many others, from approaching and restraining the lamb to putting on the halter correctly.

The lambs are three to four-month-old Coopworth sheep: Big enough to work with, but small enough for a child to handle.

With patient coaching and enough experienced help, it all works out. By Wednesday, the kids will be taking their lambs around the Obstacle Course. The shy ones will have overcome their fear and bonded with their lamb. The assertive kids will have learned the value of a gentle touch and calm attitude. The daydreamer will be listening more carefully after being warned, “Don’t lean over your lamb: It might jump up and hit your chin.”

The basics are taught in a logical progression throughout the week. The second day focuses on ruminant digestion, feeds and nutrition, and managed grazing of Coopworth sheep. At first blush, this may seem boring or too advanced for middle school kids. Not so! The subject comes to life as the kids handle scale models and visual aids, watch actual rumen bacteria dancing under a microscope, and quietly observe their lambs making forage selections.

Keeping Coopworth sheep healthy occupies an entire morning. The campers learn that a shepherd must handle most of his own routine veterinary tasks. Key topics such as parasite control, common ailments, hoof care and first aid are covered. The kids give shots to oranges, install ear tags on simulated ears, stomach-tube a stuffed animal, and splint a sheep’s leg for an imaginary broken bone. They check their lambs for vital signs and learn to set them on their rump. Manure, blood, maggots, and other “yucky topics” are discussed with complete ease.

Wool and fiber arts are included in each day’s activities. On Monday, the kids are introduced to wool and its special properties. A sheep is sheared, and the fleece carefully washed. As the week progresses, the campers try their hand at dyeing, weaving, felting, and spinning.  Local spinners, 4-H clubs and fiber artists participate as guest speakers.

Summer is a time for fun. And games are a part of Sheep Camp. But that doesn’t mean the learning stops: A rousing round of Hide-n-Go Sheep brings home the point of how flock animals think. Nothing will give away your hiding place like a solo sheep baaing for its buddies. After participating in the Lamb Races, a child knows exactly how to train a sheep to come running to a bucket of grain.

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The Obstacle Course challenges those new skills in leading and handling sheep.

Nature’s Classroom

Even though it is an educational experience, Sheep Camp does not look like a conventional school setting. The main meeting space is the 19th Century Pennsylvania bank barn, where diagrams and easels are hung from hay bales and hand-hewn beams. The lambs live in the barn next door, with space for impromptu seating and discussion. Hay bales become seats, pastures turn into living labs, and the Coopworth sheep serve as teachers. Animal Science concepts are the launch pad for myriad related topics. Strands of history, math, anthropology, biology, psychology, economics and other subjects weave seamlessly through the week’s program and discussions.

Even the social dynamics are not the same as school. The kids come from different towns, states, sometimes different countries! They range from 2nd to 7th grade. Some are experienced returning campers; others, brand new to the scene. Sheep Camp is a welcoming and safe place for all. Social cliques from school become irrelevant. The kids come together with a shared love of animals and a keen sense of adventure. Boys learn to knit; girls learn to wrestle an animal that matches their weight. No question is considered stupid. Teamwork doesn’t mean kicking a soccer ball: It means one kid catches the loose Coopworth sheep while the other runs to close the gate.

Just as in farming, one topic leads smoothly into another. The discussion of grazing behavior morphs into a pasture walk, shovel in hand, to learn about pasture biology, how the electric fence works and the indispensable role of the border collie. Weighing the lambs inevitably leads to the kids going through the handling system for a sheep’s-eye view. If camp coincides with haymaking, the kids follow every step in the process—including wishing away thunderstorms. Our family also raises pastured pigs, chickens, horses, bees, fruits, and vegetables. Diversity and sustainable farming methods become a natural part of the conversation.

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Trying out a spinning wheel is a highlight of Sheep Camp week.

Evolution Of Sheep Camp

The concept for Sheep Camp arose from our homeschooling days with our three children. Being the only sheep farm in town, we found ourselves hosting farm tours and co-op activities centered on Coopworth sheep and wool for our fellow homeschoolers. The days were always too short, the list of meaningful topics too long. “There’s enough we could teach about sheep to fill an entire week,” I had observed to my husband after one such field trip. In the blink of an eye, a plan was hatched. My first career had been teaching Vocational Agriculture, so writing lesson plans and organizing a program was familiar territory. Sheep Camp, originally advertised to local homeschool and church families, was an instant hit and became the farm’s signature program.

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Felt making is one of the fiber arts on the weekly program.

Pros And Cons

As with any of our farm enterprises, David and I recognize that there are both positives and negatives to Sheep Camp. At $275 per camper, the program is an important contributor to farm income. However, the gross profit is offset by direct costs and a significant time commitment.

There are only two months of the year when I’m not actually working on or thinking about Sheep Camp in some capacity.

Earlybird Registration opens in January. That means the dates and agenda need to be nailed down and posted on the farm website by late fall.

January and February bring the rush of deposits, registrations, health forms, and customer communications.

Lambing takes over the month of March—and those are the Coopworth sheep lambs to be used in camp.

Just as David and I are “coming up for air” after lambing, April and May must be dedicated to camp preparations—on top of the normal spring workload. It can be a bit overwhelming.

Each single week of camp actually dominates three calendar weeks: Preparation the week before, the actual week of camp, and catching up on things the following week. There is a brief respite in late summer and early fall after the last camp ends, then the cycle begins again.

For David and I, the pros far outweigh the cons. We do find it highly satisfying to work with young people and their families. There’s also a great deal of synergy between Sheep Camp and the farm business as a whole: Owens Farm markets lamb, pork, and chicken directly to consumers, a model referred to as “relationship marketing.” Families who come to know and trust the farm through Sheep Camp become enthusiastic customers for other products and programs.

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The kids really bond with their lambs during their Sheep Camp experience.

For many years, I always gave the kids a simple survey at the end of camp. When they came to the question, “What was your favorite part of sheep camp?” the answers were surprisingly similar. “Hanging out with my sheep,” the kids said, “Playing with my sheep.” For me as shepherdess and manager, feedback like that crystallizes the real reason Sheep Camp is so rewarding. David and I have the opportunity to offer children a unique experience increasingly hard to find in today’s fast-paced, highly-connected world. That brings us a deep sense of purpose, which is well worth the effort.

Have you experienced the joys of teaching kids about Coopworth sheep? Have you tried Sheep Camp? Tell us about it!

Caroline and David Owens raise  Katahdin and Coopworth sheep in Sunbury, Pennsylvania. Their sheep support the farm through traditional means such as freezer lambs, breeding stock and fleeces, but also through educational programs like Sheep Camp, Adopt-A-Sheep, and Lambing-Time Slumber Parties. For more information about Owens Farm, visit www.owensfarm.com.

Originally published in the November/December 2016 issue of sheep!.

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How to Raise Livestock Guardian Dogs

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Countryside & Small Stock Journal July/August 2017 issue is NOW AVAILABLE! Subscribe today.

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Using livestock guardian dogs dates back more than 2,000 years ago. In Countryside’s July/August 2017 issue, learn how guardian dogs can be beneficial to farms; how to keep your canines healthy and safe from deadly viruses like Parvo, and how to give them a special treat like our recipe for blueberry cinnamon baked dog treats!

+ A Guide to Dogs on the Farm — Dogs bred for the purpose of protecting livestock from predators and thieves were necessary when nomadic people roamed thousands of acres while raising sheep and cattle. The livestock guardian dog would be placed among a herd or flock and left to stay with the animals. Particular breeds were developed that showed this strong instinct to guard and protect. Not all dogs exhibit these character traits. Some individuals in other breeds may show some intensive protective instinct over your farm animals but they won’t react the same way as a true livestock guardian dog will, when left to do his job.

A Guide to Parvo in Dogs — What is parvo in dogs? Should you be concerned about this disease if you are raising a farm dog? Prevention is key to happy, healthy canines.

Blueberry Cinnamon Baked Dog Treats — Your pooch will love this special treat! An all-natural baked dog treat recipe packed with antioxidant-rich ingredients, including flaxseed, cinnamon, and blueberries. Antioxidants can be especially beneficial for dogs with eye and skin problems, allergies, illnesses like cancer or just old achy joints.

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NEW! Read this issue as a flip book!

In this Issue:

Calendula: Nature’s Sunshine Herb & More — An easy-to-grow garden must have.

Explore Four Hydroponic Grow Systems for Beginners — Growing in water isn’t just for windowsill plant starts.

+ How to Successfully Use a Pressure Canner — A comprehensive how-to-guide to ensure your canning methods are safe and effective.

+ How to Bee a Good Note Taker! — Keeping good hive inspection notes leads to better beekeeping.

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A Guide to Welding Basics — From the tools to their uses, what you need to get started welding.

+ An Overview of Grass-Fed Beef Production — Learn why this method can produce superior meat, flavor, and texture.

+ Separating Fowl Fallacies From Fact — Chicken myths abound. Know your facts.

Don’t Miss These Great Features and More:  

Migratory Insects Fly Above Us in Stunning Numbers

How to Turn One Acre Into a Productive Homestead

How to Raise Crickets for Food

Top Nine Favorite Backyard Farmer Hacks

Also in This Issue:

Denise George Photo

My sweetheart (in the driver’s seat) surprised me a few years ago with
this 1952 Chevy farm truck. We are the same model! My hubby and Matt truck … both keepers!

I Am Countryside Reader Photo Essay with Denise George  — July/August 2017

From Countryside’s Editor, Pam Freeman — July/August 2017

Countryside Conversation & Feedback — July/August 2017

Countryside Bookstore

Almanack 101/4

Countryside Back Issues Available

Countryside and Small Stock Journal is more than a homesteading magazine, it’s a network where people who are homesteading today share a variety of experiences and ideas about simple homesteading. In every issue, you’ll learn about practical solutions for growing and preserving your own food, raising chickens and small livestock, and managing a thriving homestead in a rural or urban setting.

Never miss another great issue with practical tips on homesteading today! Subscribe to Countryside and Small Stock Journal today.

 

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50 Must-Haves for TEOTWAWKI

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By Thomas Sciacca – Arguably, the most important thing to store for a SHTF (Stuff Hits The Fan) or complete TEOTWAWKI (The End Of The World As We Know It) scenario is knowledge. Without it, you won’t survive.

Beyond that, what physical things should you be storing for TEOTWAWKI? Check your survival items list against ours to see what you might be forgetting or need more of.

Our Top 50 TEOTWAWKI Survival Items List

Rubbing alcohol: Not only is rubbing alcohol good for disinfect­ing, it can also be used as a great ice pack when combined 1:2 with water. Rubbing alcohol also works as a fire starter, cleaning and disinfecting tools and more. Just don’t use it for mixed drinks!

Yarn: Having wool-yielding animals,  processing wool, and spinning yarn is laborious, and unless you’re already an expert your future learn­ing curve will thank you for having a supply of yarns on hand for knitting warm clothing and making repairs.

First aid ointment: A simple cut can result in serious infection if not treated properly. And because tubes of first aid ointment usually only contain an ounce, make sure you have plenty on your survival items list.

Anti-diarrhea medications: Diar­rhea is also something that people can regularly die from without proper in­tervention. Expect cholera, a disease whose main symptoms are profuse, painless diarrhea and vomiting of clear fluid. Dehydration can occur a few hours after the onset of cholera. This disease regularly killed folks in pioneer times and there’s no reason it couldn’t return.

Arnica: This homeopathic remedy (Arnica montana) has been used for medicinal purposes since the 1500s and is still popular today. Applied to the skin as a cream, ointment, liniment, salve, or tincture, arnica has been used to soothe muscle aches, reduce inflammation, and heal wounds. It is commonly used as a home remedy for bruises and sprains. As an herb, arnica is generally used only topically (on the skin) because it can cause serious side effects when taken by mouth.

Toiletries, deodorant, beauty products: Just because the world might go to heck in a handbasket doesn’t mean you have to look and smell bad. Taking care of your ap­pearance is good for both your physi­cal and mental well-being.

Bleach: The importance of clean­liness and disinfection of cooking utensils, the home, garden tools, animal holdings, and more will in­crease as diseases increase in a TEOTWAWKI scenario. You should have lots of this on hand.

Books of all sorts, in print: A good library will be important for reference, but also entertainment. Long, dark winters will be a misery for those who don’t attend to a decent library. Without electricity, solar power is a good way to recharge de­vices for digital books, but once the device breaks (and you know it will) that power is useless.

Brewing/alcohol making sup­plies: Storing alcohol for trade or personal use is one thing, but being able to make your own will be more valuable than currency. Tastes better than currency too! (Just don’t con­sume all your profits.)

Ammunition reloading equip­ment: A lot of people have a stored supply of ammunition, but once that runs out, will more be available at stores? Don’t bet on it. Save your brass and anything lead, and learn how to reload ammo. It’s a talent that requires extreme precision and attention to detail (an incorrectly loaded cartridge could destroy your gun or cause serious injury), so don’t take this task lightly. If you’re up for it, though, you could save a lot of money by investing in a reloading press.

Citric acid: It comes in canisters large or small, and is important for food preservation, cleaning, and as an additive for nutritious seed sprout­ing. It also acts as a meat tenderizer for the inevitable tough meats you’ll be eating and can be used to flavor beverages. You can buy it in bulk online for your survival items list.

Cocoa nibs: The health benefits of quality, unsweetened cocoa are well documented, and it will be worth its weight in gold as a cherished ingredient for sweets and treats. It can be used as a valuable barter item, but because of its storage abilities and ability to bring joy to a dreary existence, we recommend keeping it for yourself. And store more. Nibs can be used in themselves or ground into powder, so having nibs on hand is more versatile.

Paracord: You’ll need to tie things up and genuine Mil-spec Paracord is stronger, lighter and more versa­tile than rope. Plus, the seven inner strands of Paracord can also be sepa­rated and utilized for another variety of uses only adds to its handiness and the importance of always keeping it with you. (We’ve used Paracord to lace up our hiking boots. Heck, you can even floss with one of the inner threads of Paracord! Can you tell we love this stuff?)

Dates: Dried dates are a very nourishing, and very storable, food. They are very sweet, which will be welcome when sweeteners become scarce.

MRE (Meals Ready to Eat): Grow­ing vegetables and hunting game are essential skills, but on the slow days, it’s good to have some back-up. High-quality MRE have an extremely long shelf life and come in a variety of tasty flavors, so you’ll have a variety on your survival items list.

Epsom salt: Epsom salts contain important magnesium, which is use­ful for soaking sore muscles, soothing sprains, and more. Epsom salt is also useful in the garden to help increase vegetable yields.

Fabric: Chances are you’re forgetting some key, long-term items in your holdings, like fabric and the skills to make new clothing as your current stock wears out. In a bad sce­nario, your clothing will take much more of a beating than it currently does now, and you’ll wish you had denim, cotton, and more available for repairs or making new clothes.

Feminine supplies: If you’re a woman or have women in the household, feminine supplies will be essential to have on hand, how­ever, we don’t recommend tampons. Why? One average female in the U.S. will use between 10,000 and 15,000 disposable tampons or pads in a lifetime, meaning there is no way to stock enough. Instead, stock reus­able sea sponges and reusable pads, which can be cleaned, disinfected and reused.

Nail files and nail clippers: Poor foot and nail maintenance and health can cause serious problems and in­fections later. Don’t underestimate the importance of caring for your feet and hands, arguably the most important tools you’ll have.

Water filtration and water puri­fication: Water is essential for life so you’ll need several gallons a day per person. So even if you store enough for a year, what about year two? It’s a good idea to have a good filtration system, as well as water purification tablets as backup.

Medicinal houseplants: Aloe vera’s medicinal uses are wonderful, so we recommend having a renewable resource of medicinal houseplants like aloe vera and citronella. Can’t grow houseplants? Now is the time to learn. Collect medicinal houseplants and make sure you know how to grow them effectively for the home medicine arsenal.

Games: Along with good books, games are more important than you think to keep the family sane. TVs and DVD players break down in time, but Uno, poker, chess, and checkers never wear down and are always available to you and your family when it’s too dark and cold outside to do anything else. Winters will be longer than you think without entertainment.

Garlic: As a valuable flavor en­hancer and for its medicinal and healing properties, there is no way you can have enough. We also recom­mend storing and regularly rotating bulbs for growing garlic of your own when stored supplies run low.

Ichthammol ointment: This sticky, dark, slightly stinky goop is also known as drawing salve and it works incredibly well for extracting splin­ters. Just a dab will do ya, so a one-ounce tube of it will last years. Every medicine cabinet should have this.

Hand tools: Repairs to your shel­ter and anything else will be neces­sary. There are many antique and new hand tools that will drill, dovetail, saw, and plane wood for shelter maintenance. Invest in the basics.

Hemp seeds: Hemp is good for fiber for nets and rope, can be woven into an excellent fabric and can be used to make a good milk product. No, it won’t make you high.

Honey: It has an indefinite shelf life (honey has been found in Egyp­tian tombs and is still perfectly ed­ible) and is important as a sweetener. You’ll also need honey’s antibacterial properties to heal wounds. Make sure it’s 100% pure honey.

Potassium iodate (KIO3): Potas­sium iodate is a critical item to have in the event of a nuclear disaster. Ra­dioactive fallout can travel thousands of miles and if you’re in the zone where it occurs, you can be sickened and die in short order. KIO3 protects your sensitive thyroid gland from the effects of radioactive iodine, meaning you don’t want to be without this important precaution.

Compost pile: Composting is environmentally friendly and will enrich your soil to help plants grow. You can throw any vegetable waste in your compost pile (and even coffee grounds and egg shells), but abso­lutely no meat, fat or sweet things that might attract rodents or bugs. Locate your compost pile well away from the house, keep it moist and turn it over regularly.

Loom: Storing fabric is impor­tant, but having a loom available for weaving blankets, clothing, and more will be important. A large loom is not necessary; even small woven squares can be stitched together into larger items.

Lye: Lye is used in soap making and to preserve or prepare certain types of food, like hominy, curing olives, or making century eggs. It will also be impossible to make soap without lye. Historically, lye was made using wood ashes, but this process takes time to learn to do cor­rectly, and some woods work better than others.

Needles/thread: Don’t underesti­mate the amount of thread that will be necessary for clothing repair, and how easily needles can break when being used regularly. During the Revolutionary War, sewing needles were a trade item among women. It’s a good idea to stock different thicknesses of thread making sure not to neglect heavy-duty thread for repairing jeans or leather items. And knitting needles will enable you to make sweaters, mittens, and blankets to a host of other items. Sewing and knitting are essential skills.

Oil press: Oil is not only for cook­ing, it is also for soap making, food preservation, and health and skin care. The problem is that oil doesn’t store well. An oil press will allow you to extract oils from nuts or seeds.

Old medical books: While treat­ments can be found in old medical books, their most important use is to diagnose disease symptoms. Many diseases have been near eradicated and medical books no longer teach students what they look like. These diseases will likely reemerge in a TEOTWAWKI scenario.

Pencils/pens/paper: We hardly use them anymore, but they will become more desirable and more valuable later. Make sure you have enough.

Reading glasses: We age and along with that comes reading diffi­culties once we hit middle age. Keep several pairs, in case you lose or break them … which you will.

Salt: No, you’re not storing enough for eating or food preserva­tion. It never goes bad. Store more.

Shoes for children: Children grow and they will need shoes that keep up with them. Cheap shoes that will last six months are fine as a child is growing quickly, but once their feet stop growing, make sure you have high-quality shoewear available for them.

Slingshot: Silent, deadly, and accurate with practice, the sling-shot is a way to defend yourself and hunt small game, even when ammo runs out. Rocks can be used effectively if you have some practice under your belt. Make sure everyone in your group has at least one.

Soap: Cleanliness will be para­mount as basic societal conditions decline. While you can make your own bar soap, make sure you have enough soap of all kinds, like soap flakes for laundry, or ammonia, to keep up with the cleaning demands. Cleanliness is one of the most impor­tant things to pay attention to.

Socks: Foot health is important, and making sure you have plenty of sturdy, high-quality socks for the entire family will keep you comfort­able when you are on your feet all day. And make sure you learn how to darn them.

Sundried tomatoes: Sundried tomatoes are an all-around kitchen staple that can provide flavor and nutrition to soups and stews, along with many important vitamins and minerals. It’s easy to take sun-dried tomatoes and soak them in oil to add flavor or grind them into a powder as a thickener. They are so versatile in the kitchen and for nutrition that we’re sure you’re not storing enough until you get your own tomato crops growing.

Stainless steel buckets, milk pails, etc.: Stainless steel will almost last forever. Buckets and milk pails are easy to disinfect and clean, too. Forget plastic in the home—it de­grades and becomes increasingly difficult to keep sterile and clean.

Tea tree oil: Due to its long shelf life (indefinite) and ability to assist with wound healing and disinfec­tion, tea tree oil is an essential item to have in your medicine cabinet. It can be used alone or added to other skin preparations.

Heirloom seeds: Why heirloom seeds? Because you’ll be able to save the seed year-after-year for continued harvests. GMO and hybridized seeds won’t produce viable offspring, and many times the resulting seed won’t even germinate. A good heirloom-based seed bank is paramount.

Tobacco seeds: Growing tobacco for trade will give you an edge, and it has uses as a plant for making re­pellants in the garden for problems such as aphids, borers, rodents, and more.

Seed-starting supplies: Don’t as­sume you can just throw some seeds in the ground and have them grow. With many plants, like grains, this is the way to go, but your seed stor­age will go further if you start seeds then transplant viable vegetables into the garden. Invest in reusable seed-starting supplies.

Vitamin C: Scurvy is a pretty horrific disease, both to have and ob­serve. It doesn’t take much vitamin C to ward it off, but the lack of it is just not an option. People underestimate the value of vitamin C in the diet, and how quickly you can get into real trouble without it. Citric acid (#11) provides vitamin C, but we prefer to save that for food preparation and preservation and stick with vitamin C tablets for scurvy prevention.

Alternate energy sources: Elec­tricity and natural gas may not be available from the utility company during a bad situation. Think about how else to heat the house (such as a wood stove) and provide electrical power (e.g. windmill, solar panels).

Animals: The amount of wild game available will likely dwindle with time. Having livestock such as sheep and goats will enable you to sustain yourself with meat, milk, and fiber. Not everyone has the room for animals on their property, but if you can, do it.

You may have more ideas to add to this TEOTWAWKI survival items list (clear plastic totes, zip lock bags, generator), but I wanted to keep this already large survival items list to a manageable (yet not overwhelming) length. And isn’t 50 a nice round number for a survival items list? On a serious note, though, you may find that you’re not in a location that en­ables you to keep goats, chickens, and sheep, but this is where you need to be creative and think about creative partnerships you might make with close friends or family members who can stock the items you can’t.

Remember, the more you prep now, the better you’ll be able to take care of your family during times when others are panicking. Use this survival items list as a starting point to being capable and equipped in an emergency. And that’s key, whether you’re talking about a typical tough situation or an all out TEOTWAWKI scenario.

Be safe and stay prepared.

Originally published in Countryside September / October 2014 and regularly vetted for accuracy. 

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Hatching Duck Eggs

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Hatching duck eggs is an awe-inspiring experience. Since domestic duck breeds rarely go broody (i.e. sit on fertile eggs until they hatch), using an incubator is generally your best bet. Various types of incubators work slightly differently, so it’s important to read the instruction manual for your particular model, but I wanted to share some general tips for a successful hatch to get you started raising baby ducklings. I much prefer hatching my own ducklings to buying ducks because I find the ducks I hatch are far more friendly as adults.

Choosing and Handling Fertile Eggs

Using your own fertile eggs is best when you’re considering hatching duck eggs since you know that the ducks are healthy and the eggs are fresh. If you don’t have a drake, or want to hatch some breeds you don’t currently raise, be sure to order your hatching eggs from a reputable breeder or hatchery – or pick them up at a local farm. Shipped eggs are often jostled or subjected to temperature fluctuations and often have a far lower hatch rate than other eggs.

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If you are using your own eggs, pick some of average size that are perfectly shaped, preferably not covered with mud or manure. Don’t wash them, instead carefully scrape off any muck with your fingernail or a rough sponge.

Store the eggs pointed end down at a 45-degree angle in a cool location – around 60 degrees is optimal – until you’ve collected enough to fill your incubator. Rotate the eggs side to side several times a day to keep the yolk centered in the white.

Most problems with eggs not hatching can be attributed to old eggs with low fertility, rough handling, eggs stored at an improper temperature, improper turning, uneven incubator temperature or humidity, or nutritional deficiencies in the breeding stock. Hatchability declines each day after an egg is laid. Fertile eggs will stay viable for about seven days after being laid. After that, fertility starts to decline, so try not to delay too long.

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Setting Your Eggs

When you are ready to put the eggs in the incubator, whether using your own eggs or shipped eggs, “candle” each egg to check for hairline cracks. You can use a regular flashlight and just cup your hand around the beam to shine it through the shell. Discard any cracked eggs. You can seal minor cracks with softened beeswax to prevent bacteria and air from entering the egg through the crack and killing the embryo. If you see a reddish ring inside the egg, that ‘blood ring’ indicates bacteria has gotten inside the egg and it should be discarded. Contaminated eggs can explode and contaminate other eggs.

It’s very important to wash your hands both prior to and after handling the eggs. Eggshells are extremely porous and bacteria is easily transmitted from your hands through the pores to the developing embryo throughout the incubation. Note: At this point, a fertile hatching duck egg looks exactly like a non-fertile egg, so there’s no way to tell which might hatch. You’re simply making sure the eggs aren’t cracked or contaminated.

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Hatching Duck Eggs

Duck eggs should be incubated at a temperature between 99.3 and 99.6 (but again, check the setting for your particular model) for 28 days. The humidity level in the incubator is extremely important as well and needs to be monitored. Depending on the type of incubator you are using, the humidity can be controlled by filling small water reservoirs, or wetting a clean kitchen sponge and setting it inside the incubator. Humidity should be checked using a hygrometer, available from your feed store or online if your incubator doesn’t come equipped with one, and kept constant according to your incubator instruction manual.

As the embryo develops, moisture is lost through the pores in the eggshell, and the air sac in the egg gets larger. It’s crucial that the air sac be the correct size to allow the embryo room to grow and air to breathe before it hatches. If the humidity is too high in the incubator, the air sac will be too small and the duckling will have trouble breathing and breaking out of the shell. Conversely, low humidity will result in a larger air space, a smaller, weaker duckling and hatching problems.

Weighing each egg throughout the incubation process is the most accurate way to achieve the proper humidity levels for a successful hatch. Optimally you want each egg to lose 13% of its weight from hatch to day 25 of the incubation period. More detailed explanations of relative humidity and egg weight loss is beyond the scope of this article, but fairly detailed explanations can be found both on the Brinsea website and Metzer Farms.

If you are manually turning your eggs, you will want to turn them a minimum of five times a day – and always an odd number of times – turning 180 degrees side to side each time – so the egg spends every other night on the opposite side. This prevents the developing embryo from sticking to the shell and membrane.

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Five days into the incubation, you should be able to see some veins when you candle the eggs. The air sac at the blunt end of each egg should have started to expand as well. By day 10, candling will show significant expansion of the air sac in the blunt end of the egg with more veins and dark spots. Any eggs not showing any development by day 10 can usually be safely removed as they are most likely infertile or otherwise not going to hatch.

Starting on day 10, the eggs will benefit from daily misting and cooling. Once a day, remove the lid of the incubator and leave it off for 30-60 minutes. The eggs should be left so they feel neither warm nor cold to the touch. Then mist each egg with lukewarm water and replace the incubator lid. The misting helps keep the humidity levels high and the membrane moist which assists the duckling in hatching. The misting also cools the egg surface temperature slightly as the water evaporates. Studies have shown this can greatly improve hatching duck egg rates, as it mimics a mother duck leaving the nest each day to find something to eat and maybe take a short swim, returning wet to her nest.

Continue turning, cooling and misting the eggs as described until three days before the eggs are due to hatch. At that point, one last candling should be done and any eggs not showing development should be discarded so only viable embryos remain. The incubator shouldn’t be opened from this point on. Opening the incubator causes the humidity level to drop drastically which can hamper the hatching duck eggs and inadvertently turning the eggs can cause them not the hatch. The ducklings are in ‘hatch position’ and disorienting them at this point can cause them to be unable to successfully break the shell and hatch.

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Hopefully, if all goes well, on day 28 you will begin to see ‘pips’ (small holes or cracks) appear in the eggshells. After making that initial hole, the duckling will often take a lengthy break to rest up for the final breakout. This break can last for hours – up to 12 hours is quite common – and you shouldn’t be tempted to help a duckling at this stage. The duckling will then begin to make its way out of the shell, ‘zipping’ off the top of the egg and emerging from the shell.

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The entire process of hatching duck eggs can take 48 hours or longer, so resist the urge to assist unless the duckling is nearly out but seems twisted or wrapped up in the membrane or is ‘shrink wrapped’ in a dried membrane. In that case, a bit of assistance in moistening the membrane with some warm water can be beneficial. Leave the ducklings in the incubator until they are rested, dried and active.

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What to Feed Baby Ducks

You may wonder what to feed baby ducks. Like baby chicks, baby ducklings don’t need to eat or drink for the first 48 hours. They survive on the nutrients in the egg yolk they absorb just prior to hatching. Once they are dried off and rested and have been moved to their heated brooder, baby ducklings can eat unmedicated chick feed with a bit of Brewer’s Yeast sprinkled over the top for the niacin they need for strong legs and bones.

So now that you know the basics of hatching duck eggs, why not give it a try yourself?

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For more tips and tricks to help you raise happy, healthy chickens and ducks naturally, visit me on Facebook or my blog at Fresh Eggs Daily.

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CDC: Salmonella Outbreak – Should You be Worried About Your Backyard Birds?

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By Michelle Miller – A new CDC Salmonella outbreak report warns that illness from Salmonella is on the rise in 2017.  Hundreds of people, over a third being children under the age of five, have become ill within one week of contact with live birds, suggesting that backyard poultry is a major source of Salmonella infection. These statistics can be frightening but they are meant as warnings. Keeping backyard poultry comes with a list of diseases that your human family could be exposed to from Salmonella to Avian Influenza. However, understanding the best way to house/handle birds can keep everyone healthy and ensures that the benefits of backyard birds far outweigh the risks! Here is what you need to know about the CDC Salmonella outbreak and what it means for you.

What is Salmonella?

Salmonella is a type of bacteria that can cause severe illness in humans when ingested. Common sources of salmonella infection include foods such as undercooked meat and raw milk. Salmonella can infect the intestinal tract of birds without causing disease and a bird can carry the bacteria for a lifetime.

What are the Signs of Salmonella Infection?

Know the signs of illness that are associated with Salmonella infection in humans. Symptoms can start within 12 hours of exposure and include the following.

  • Diarrhea
  • Vomiting
  • Abdominal Cramping
  • Fever

Most people recover within a week without treatment but children and elderly persons may experience more serious illness. The CDC Salmonella outbreak information page advises anyone with severe symptoms to seek medical care.

How is Salmonella Spread from Birds to Humans?

Birds can carry Salmonella without showing any signs of illness so you may not know if your birds are infected. This means anything that your birds come into contact with could be contaminated. Touching birds, cages, bedding, eggs, or any other items in the area leads to contamination of your hands or clothing. Putting your hands in or near your mouth then transfers the Salmonella to you. It’s important to remember that even chicks and ducklings can carry Salmonella.

Can Eggs Carry Salmonella?

Yes, if your birds are infected, then the eggs from your birds can be contaminated. This can happen during egg laying or can occur through contact with dirty litter. Eggs from infected birds could have been one of several sources causing the CDC Salmonella outbreak. Here are a few basics for proper handling and treatment of eggs to reduce the risk of contamination.

  • Wash your hands, not the eggs. Washing eggs has been shown to increase chances of bacteria penetrating the eggshell.
  • Keep nesting boxes clean. Clean litter means clean eggs.
  • Collect eggs as often as possible.
  • Store eggs in a refrigerator immediately after collection.
  • Cook your eggs thoroughly before eating.

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What Can You do to Prevent Getting Infected?

It is difficult to determine the exact cause of the CDC Salmonella outbreak but these types of Salmonella infection are usually attributed to poor poultry handling practices. Many of the same day-to-day behaviors that help ensure your birds keep Salmonella to themselves apply to other poultry germs as well, so making these practices a permanent part of your daily routine can go a long way to giving you peace of mind about the safety of keeping birds.

  • WASH YOUR HANDS after any contact with the birds or the area where they are kept.
  • Supervise contact time between younger children and birds. Make sure that children wash their hands properly afterward.
  • Do not put your mouth or face near your birds (no kissing).
  • Keep birds in their own area. Having a house-chicken might make for great Instagram photos but live birds in or near places where food is prepared is never a good idea.
  • Have a designated pair of coop-boots that stay outside. Bringing dirty shoes into your home is often overlooked as a source of contamination.
  • Wash feed and water containers outside.

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Keeping poultry can be an extremely rewarding and entertaining activity. However, as the CDC Salmonella outbreak highlights, there are clear health consequences when precautions are not taken to protect yourself from potential disease transmission. Although Salmonella infection is something every bird owner should consider, it’s relatively easy to prevent. Taking the extra time to understand these risks and to follow safe poultry-rearing practices as outlined here will only add to the positive experience of having your own backyard flock!

Are you concerned about the CDC Salmonella outbreak? Do you take precautions to prevent this illness? Join in the conversation below.

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How to Shear a Sheep and Other Fiber Animals

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Learning how to shear a sheep takes practice and time. Before you head out to buy sheep shearing supplies try to observe a professional sheep shearer and ask questions. The first few times are going to be a little frustrating unless you learn the basics of handling the sheep, what shearing supplies to purchase, and how to use them. Skilled sheep shearers make flipping a sheep look easy because they do hundreds of sheep a week during peak shearing season. Shearing is something that cannot be avoided when you raise sheep unless you are raising the hair breeds such as Barbados Blackbelly, or Katahdin sheep. Even those who raise Suffolk sheep, primarily for market lambs, still need to shear sheep yearly for the health and well-being of the flock.

Most sheep are shorn in the early spring before the heat builds and the flies hatch. There are reasons why early spring shearing is the time most shepherds choose.

    1. Wool continues to grow if not shorn, making the sheep uncomfortable. The heavy wool begins to pull on the skin and can lead to skin sores. Those sores can attract flies, leading to possible fly strike.
    2. Unshorn sheep become itchy in the heat and begin rubbing on hay racks, fences and each other. This can lead to fence damage and damaged fleece. Rubbing the wool causes the fleece to felt on the sheep’s body.
    3. Flystrike. The dirty unshorn wool invites flies. Shearing the wool before the flies hatch, gets rid of the dirty soiled fleece. Any cuts or abrasions that occur during shearing will heal quickly before fly season.
    4. Early shearing gives the shepherd a chance to assess the animal’s condition after the winter. Condition refers to the animal’s weight, and also health. Check eyes, ears, body mass, feet, and tail area. Check for redness or irritation in the genital and urethra area.

Unless you are trained, sheep shearing is better when performed by a skilled professional. This does not mean you can’t learn! There is much that can be learned by shearing with a skilled shearer by your side to guide you. Observing would be the first step in learning how to shear a sheep. Remember that the skilled shearer will make the job look rather easy. The job is quite taxing physically. If you don’t feel able to handle the physical requirement of the job, it might be better to hire a professional.

Having Supplies Ready will Make Shearing Day More Pleasant

Whether you hire a professional or choose to do the job yourself, get all your shearing supplies ready before you start. Have a favorite treat for your animals nearby too. Lay out a large tarp to work on. You can learn how to shear a sheep with a shearing machine, or with manual sheep shears. Learning how to shear a sheep using different equipment will make you an even better shearer.

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Equipment and Supplies to Gather

  • Large tarp to cover the ground  and catch the fleece as it falls
  • Plastic bags for temporary clean storage
  • Animal treats
  • Water for you
  • Broom for sweeping between animals
  • Extension cord for the shearing clippers
  • Blue-Kote, Swat, Cornstarch in case of accidental cuts or scratches
  • Scissors for cleaning up around ears, tail other small areas

The Shearing Clippers

It is important to note and discuss that the clippers used to shear wool-yielding animals are not the same as clippers used on dogs, horses or other pets. Sheep shearing equipment is expensive and care should be taken of the clippers during shearing day and after. The clippers require a cutting blade and a shearing comb. Often the combs are designed for particular types of fleece. Before purchasing, learn which fleece type you have and then purchase the combs that most closely match your animal’s fleece.

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Young farmer shearing sheep for wool in barn

How to Shear a Sheep

The optimal result for a fleece that will be sought after by spinners and crafters is one that is removed in one piece. Often referred to as “unzipping” the fleece, the shearer will begin by flipping the sheep onto its backside so it is sitting like a dog, but leaning back onto the shearer’s legs.

The brisket or chest area is sheared first. Stay close to the animal’s body while avoiding going over the same area twice. That is called second cuts and those will reduce the value of your fleece. Hand spinners do not want the short second cuts as they spin and the commercial machines often can’t make a good roving out of fleece with second cuts in it. After the chest, and lower neck area, the shearer will work down one side of the animal, the flank on one side and then part of the back. The fleece is still in one piece as the shearer shifts the sheep to the other side and repeats the process, eventually leading to a release of the full fleece. After removing the fleece from the area the shearer will go back over the lower legs, dock area, and crotch to remove the soiled wool. This is usually discarded.

Sheep shearing jobs are often plentiful in the spring. Learning how to shear a sheep may be a good way to supplement your income.

Now you have your beautiful, homegrown fleece, ready to be further crafted into roving, felted mats, clouds of fiber and a wide variety and styles of yarns. The fleece will need some processing first, however.

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Shearing Other Wool-Bearing Animals

Once you understand the basics of shearing and how to shear a sheep, you won’t have any problem learning to shear other fiber animals. Llamas, Alpacas, Angora and Pygora goats also require an annual or twice-yearly shearing. The process can be similar although quite a few professional shearers use a mat system when shearing the goats and alpacas and llamas. This system stretches the animal out on its side for shearing, the animal is flipped to the other side and the process is completed.

Another method uses a stand similar to a milking stand. When shearing this way, the animal is sheared down both sides individually. Since goat fiber is not usually released as a single fleece anyway, this works out well if you are not able to flip the animal and handle the animal while shearing.

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Steps for Cleaning The Fleece

If you are having the fleece commercially processed by a fiber mill, you only need to remove large pieces of debris from the fleece before rolling it up and storing it.

Selling the fleece yourself will require a few more steps to make it attractive to the hand spinning community. Washing the fleece is done in a really large tub. You need room for the fleece to soak in the water without it being agitated which leads to felting. I recommend a 40 gallon or larger tub. Use hot water for the first wash with your choice of wool detergent. When rinsing and draining the fleece be careful to not twist or scrub the fleece.  Gently press the water out. Refill the tub with slightly warm water and repeat the process. Repeat the process until the water is clear. Using a cup of white vinegar during one of the final rinses will help remove some soap residue. Lay the fleece out on a screened table to dry. Occasionally fluff the fleece to help the air circulate. When the fleece is completely dry it is ready to be sold or stored for further processing. Storing in a cloth bag is better than a plastic bag. Adding some fresh lavender in a mesh bag while storing will help repel pests and rodents.

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What Can You do with the Wool Fleece?

Many craft styles are possible from this point. Learning to spin, felt, knit, crochet and weave are a few skills to try. At some point, you may want to try your hand at using natural dyes for wool. So many colors can be found in nature. Perhaps you will want to start a garden specifically as a dyers garden and harvest beautiful colors for your yarns. The journey from sheep to yarn has been extremely enjoyable for us. There are unlimited directions and paths to take when starting the journey of raising sheep and learning how to shear a sheep for your fiber needs.

Originally published in 2016 and regularly vetted for accuracy.

 

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10 Best Agriculture Schools

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By Doug Ottinger, Minnesota

Academia, I learned, is not all about laptops and college football games these days. In a few corners around the country, some of the best agriculture schools are training their students in the science of getting their hands dirty and making food.

Beyond the traditional college pillars and wood-paneled libraries, there are students who work every day under greenhouse skies along a path into agriculture. They are, like hundreds of their peers around the country, learning to build bridges between the science of agriculture and the ethics of natural resource management. And some are going a step further and focusing on food deserts, and how agriculture practices can help solve world hunger.

We have selected 10 schools that offer something traditional agriculture courses, while also sewing in curriculums related to sustainability and responsibility. In our list, we have included both public and private colleges, and of the 10 best agriculture schools selected, all were unique. So, to be clear, this is not a ranking. Just a list of best agriculture schools around the country.

All of the schools had to meet very high standards and actually deliver on their educational promises. All had gone above and beyond when it came to teaching methods of sustainable farming and stewardship of our fragile ecosystems. All had to be making positive contributions to real needs in our world. Some are members and grant recipients of the Sustainable Agriculture Research Education program (SARE), an act passed by Congress in 1988 to further sustainability in American agriculture, and others are not.

Here are the 10 best agriculture schools… all are outstanding.

California State University at Chico (CSUC)
Visit www.csuchico.edu/ag, or mail 400 W. 1ST Ave., Chico, CA 95929.  Call (530) 898-4636.

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At Chico State, students manage an 85-head herd of cattle as part of their curriculum.

It was Sunday morning, June 19. The research had been done. With Chico State (CSUC) being one of the best agriculture schools, we knew that they had two programs we wanted to include in this article. However, Chico State is one of those larger schools, and faculty at larger schools can be managing hundreds of students, and often be difficult to contact.

Knowing this, I sent emails to two of the professors: Dr. Lee Altier, of the organic vegetable production unit, and Dr. Cynthia Daley, of Chico State’s certified organic dairy. I figured they might pick them up the next morning, possibly respond, and eventually we would make contact. Then I went outside to work on other projects.

When I came back inside the house, my wife told me that somebody from Chico State had called. She didn’t get to the phone in time. The call was very broken-up. I tried to listen to the voice mail, but it was not very clear.

Not expecting much, I checked my incoming emails. To my surprise, I had emails from not only one, but both of these faculty members! I was also surprised to learn that Dr. Altier had responded from Nepal, and was very interested in sharing information with us.

When Dr. Daley answered the phone, I could hear the sounds of dairy equipment humming in the background. She had just finished milking and changing the water at her own dairy.

The University Dairy, meanwhile, was being taken care of by Darby Heffner, the manager of the organic dairy unit. Chico State has a certified organic dairy consisting of 85 milking head of Jersey-cross cows and produces its own feed and fodder. Being at a research university, the dairy experiments with both open and closed fodder systems. The dairy also raises its own replacement heifers.

Those involved with the dairy realize that if it is to be an actual model for the rest of California agriculture, it has to be self-supporting and financially viable.

As Dr. Daley said, “We’ve been in ivory-towered academia for too long. If these programs are going to go mainstream, they have to be financially feasible. Otherwise, what is the point in doing them?”

Another of CSUC’s viable operations is an organic vegetable production unit, headed by Dr. Lee Altier. Again, the program has been designed to be financially sustainable, and usable as a model for other growers in the state. What really amazed me was the close working relationship that the organic dairy and the organic vegetable unit have with each other. Both of these instructors seem to realize the importance of the symbiotic relationships necessary, not only in the biological world, but in the business and interpersonal world as well.

One of the big pushes that CSUC is making is working on building soil health through organic and microbial means, instead of using synthetic chemicals. Faculty members at Chico State are realizing that something has to change in our current system. A number of them are working intensely in “carbon sequestering,” as well as developing agricultural methods that leave little, to nothing, in the way of carbon footprints. The university is already hosting seminars and workshops for growers in the state.

As Dr. Daley also pointed out, “Where we are with climate change, means we have to do something. These programs have to be real and be economically viable for the growers using them.”

If these programs can be used successfully in a large, commercial, high-cost and heavily regulated agricultural state like California, the reality is that they can probably be made to work, any other place in the world.

Sterling College
Visit www.sterlingcollege.edu, or write to them at Sterling College, PO Box 72, Craftsbury Common, VT 05827. Call (800) 648-3591.

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Students at Sterling College in Vermont attend to the fields. Photos courtesy Sterling College.

Located in Craftsbury Common, Vermont, Sterling College is dedicated entirely to environmental stewardship and sustainable agriculture. The school offers five majors, plus an option for a self-directed interdisciplinary major. These include Ecology, Environmental Humanities, Sustainable Agriculture, Sustainable Food Systems and Outdoor Education.

As one of eight federally recognized work colleges in the United States, and the only one in the Northeast, all students at Sterling, regardless of financial aid or privilege, must work at least seven hours per week in some sort of campus industry. With a student-faculty ratio of 7:1, Sterling has one of the lowest and best ratios in the nation. The school is known for close faculty-student interaction and guidance which is why they are one of the best agriculture schools included in this list.

The learning curriculum is designed for maximum hands-on experience in the real world, as well as classroom knowledge and theory. Many of the cognate and general education classes give much more than basic knowledge; writing and speech classes teach students how to be persuasive and influential in presentations in real-life situations. When a student leaves Sterling, he or she not only has a sound education in environmental and sustainable agricultural issues, but is also prepared to be a leader.

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Sean Poynter, class of 2016, had this to say about his experience at the school: “Sustainable agriculture is integrated into so much of what we do. Whether or not you study agriculture, or work on the farm, every student at least does farm chores, gets to know the animals, and sees how the farm functions. Everyone here has a hand in growing the food that we eat.”

Another student, Amyah Cazares said, “To me, sustainable agriculture means intentionally working hard for a world where animals, vegetables, and the soil are treated with dignity and respect. At Sterling, this plays out in soil tests, spending quality time with our animals, and continual planning made to improve our school farm.”

According to Christian Feuerstein, Director of Communications at the school, a full 20 percent of food served on campus comes from their own fields, and the school is working to significantly increase that amount. Seventy-five percent also comes from sustainable, humane and environmentally responsible sources.

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A student at Sterling College in Vermont attends to the cattle. Photos courtesy Sterling College.

This best agriculture school teaches students to work with, and care for draft animals, in the daily agricultural and environmental tasks. In fact, the school offers a minor in draft horse management. I made the remark to Ms. Feuerstein that it certainly appeared that the rubber really meets the road in the curriculum, to which she replied, “Or in our case, the hooves meet the turf!”

University of Hawaii—Hilo
Visit https://hilo.hawaii.edu/academics, or write to them at 200 W. Kawili St., Hilo, HI 96720-4091. Call (808) 932-7038.

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At the University of Hawaii, students manage forestry and agriculture programs. Photos courtesy Dr. Norman Arancon.

Students at the University of Hawaii at Hilo, College of Agriculture, Forestry and Natural Resource Management (CAFNRM), learn about tropical horticulture, with a heavy emphasis in organic and sustainable methods of production. Not only is it one of the best agriculture schools, it is also one of the most affordable sustainable agriculture schools.

At slightly more than $10,000 per academic year, it ranks as one of the best-priced schools in the nation. A low student-faculty ratio of 13:1 also means that students have the opportunity to connect more closely with the faculty during the education process.

And there, food is truly a local issue. According to Dr. Norman Arancon, associate professor at the Hilo Campus, 87 percent of all food and fuel consumed in Hawaii is imported. Not only is the lack of current local production in basic food supplies of grave concern to the state, but waste management on the islands is also of very real concern.

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Because of these concerns, the University of Hawaii campus, at Hilo, is involved in intense, hands-on research in sustainable and organic food production methods. Dr. Arancon’s area of specialty is the handling and disposal of agricultural waste. An expert in vermiculture (earthworms), Dr. Arancon is a leading researcher in ways to convert waste into nutrient-rich compost that can be put directly back into the soils for crop production in the island chain.

Organic and sustainable production is a very large part of the campus’ horticulture and agriculture programs. Because of the climatic nature of tropical production, battling insect pests and plant disease without the use of sprays and toxic chemicals can be a very big challenge. Faculty at the school, including Dr. Arancon, realize that a long-term, sustainable, organic approach has many benefits over the short-term use of sprays and chemicals. Some of the methods currently in use include enclosed systems of production, as in greenhouses and screen houses. According to Dr. Arancon, one of the biggest secrets to successful organic production, however, is to develop stronger plants with better immune systems. Plants with healthier immune systems have an innate ability to resist disease and insect attacks much better. This is being done largely by the use of the organic fertilizers and composts that are produced from the organic breakdown of the waste products.

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The Big Island, where the campus is located, has 10 distinct climatic zones, so the entire island is used as a laboratory for learning. Not only can students become knowledgeable and proficient in the basics of tropical production, they can become knowledgeable in farming and horticultural production in other climates.

University of Vermont
Visit asci.uvm.edu/cream, or write them at University of Vermont, Burlington, VT 05405. Call (802) 5656-3131.

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The University of Vermont established a Cooperative for Real Education in Agricultural Management (CREAM), where small teams of students manage dairy herds. Photos courtesy Jane Kennedy O’Neil.

Long known for being at the forefront of environmental stewardship, the state university is also a leader in areas of ecological farming and sustainable natural resource management. The Department of Plant and Soil Sciences has offered an undergraduate degree in Ecological Agriculture for well over 10 years, and the Department of Animal and Veterinary Sciences offers an outstanding number of courses and degrees.

One of the flagship offerings is the CREAM program: Cooperative for Real Education in Agricultural Management. This is an eight-unit, hands-on agricultural curriculum in which small teams of students actively manage a dairy herd, and are responsible for all decisions and results, good or bad.

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Amber Davis, a junior, who is majoring in animal science and pre-veterinary studies, is a participant. “I think it is the most valuable, hands-on program available,” Davis said. “It gives students an opportunity to be in charge and make actual decisions, that most students only get to learn about in the classroom.”

Amber, who grew up around animals on her grandfather’s New Hampshire farm, knew she wanted to spend a career working with animals. When she got ready to go to college, she and her mother looked at several programs, including another CREAM program in another state. After a thorough review, she chose Vermont’s program because of its unique opportunities and the school’s ties with graduate schools.

She told me, “Being in charge allows you to learn in a way that no other program would. We actually make the breeding decisions and have to decide what traits we want to enhance. For example, it may be udder conformation or hoof health. We also get to work directly with a veterinarian. We actually get to administer IVs, something many students don’t do until they get into a veterinary program.” Students also do all of the milking and day-to-day operations. They may be there any hour of the day or night for calving or veterinary emergencies.

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Not all students who apply are accepted. Grades are only one of the selection criteria. There are four basic skills tests, and a skills test may require a student to show up at 3 a.m., ready, to do the milking, help with calving or finish other chores. The student does not need to know how to milk, for example, but they must show up prepared and be ready and willing to learn. The skills testing portrays real-life issues, that those in animal care may deal with, every day of the year. Being prepared, and showing initiative, is one of the biggest things that helps get students into the program.

The program currently has 15 students, but usually runs about 18. Another reason why they made our list of best agriculture schools is that all University of Vermont Veterinary School applicants who completed the CREAM program were accepted into the University’s Veterinary Science Program, a notoriously hard program in which to gain admittance.

University of Maine
Visit https://go.umaine.edu, or mail University of Maine, Orono, ME 04469. Call (207) 581-1865.

Having the longest-running accredited forestry program qualifies the University of Maine as a standout school. The University’s College of Natural Sciences, Forestry and Agriculture, has a very impressive education program in sustainable agriculture and environmental horticulture. Both of these programs rely heavily on organics and natural soil building. The college donates an impressive amount of produce to local food banks, every year.

However, one thing that impressed us was the programs they offer in sustainable forest management. The school currently manages more than 13,00 acres of mixed North American forests, with some 6,200 acres being close-by University-owned land. Students in the forestry programs get weekly, year-round experience in all aspects of forest management. When students leave the school, they are well-qualified to enter into a fairly large number of environmental careers, including forestry.

University of Missouri
Visit https://cafnr.missouri.edu/academics/ or https://online.missouri.edu/degreeprograms/agroforestry/, or mail University of Missouri, Columbia, MO 65211. Call (573) 882-2121.

The University of Missouri’s College of Agriculture, Food and Natural Resources offers undergraduate degrees in various agriculture fields, including ones that emphasize sustainable agriculture. The standout offering from this fully accredited school is a master’s degree in Natural Resources, with an emphasis in agroforestry, a farming system that incorporates crop and livestock production with native plant and forest stewardship. The entire post-graduate degree can be completed online. For those who already have a four-year degree, but would like to continue learning, this best agriculture school offers a very appealing option.

Andrews University
Visit www.andrews.edu/cas or contact Associate Professor, Garth Woodruff, at woodrufg@andres.edu. Mail 8975 US-31, Berrien Springs, MI 49401. Call (269) 47107771.

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Students at Andrews University focus on international agriculture and are active helping an orphanage in Swaziland become sustainable. Photos courtesy of Andrews University.

Students from conservative backgrounds who are interested in sustainable agriculture and helping others may find Andrews University, in Michigan, a fitting choice. Besides degrees in horticulture and animal sciences, Andrews offers a degree in International Agricultural Development. Well known for sustainable, international agriculture development, Andrews’ policy is to respect the local cultures and use systems already in place. Organics and sustainability are integral to Andrews’ focus.

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The department is also active in helping develop clean, non-polluted sources of drinking water. One fairly recent project was a sustainable farming and clean water project, for an orphanage or “Welcome Center” in Swaziland (“Welcome Center” is used because the term “orphanage” has a bad connotation in Swazi culture).

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Andrews has many opportunities for students to actively work abroad and be a part of making a difference. One current project is agricultural development in Jordan. Native food crops that use less water are being located and reintroduced. At current rates of usage, Jordan could run out of water within 30 years. Andrews is working to help the country avoid potential disaster.

University of Kentucky
Visit www.uky.edu/hort. Professor Krista Jacobsen invites prospective students to contact her personally at krista.jacobsen@uky.edu. Mail University of Kentucky, Lexington, KY 40506. Call (859) 257-9000.

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The University of Kentucky offers programs in sustainable growing practices, and students can study abroad on small farms in Indonesia. Photos courtesy of Dr. Krista Jacobsen.

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The University of Kentucky, Department of Horticulture, offers an impressive curriculum in sustainable growing practices. The department has a recurring, study-abroad program in Indonesia, where students can learn how small farms in Indonesia make a living. Just a few areas of learning are traditional rice production in Java, management of tropical forests in Sumatra, where the forest is left intact and coffee is grown in the under-canopy (often by women’s agricultural coops), and tea production in Bali. Students can then take this knowledge and apply it to their own experience.

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The university has a large, certified organic farm at its Lexington Campus. Seniors also have the opportunity to work closely with a faculty adviser in their senior year’s capstone course in an area of their choice.

Unity College
Visit www.unity.edu, or mail 90 Quaker Hill Rd., Unity, ME 04988. Call (207) 509-7100.

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Unity College professors and students pushed the administrators to divest from fossil fuels and invest in sustainable agriculture programs.

Hailing itself as “America’s Environmental College,” Unity College, in Unity, Maine, quite literally followed the old saying, “Put your money where your mouth is.” By unanimous decision of the board of regents in 2008, the school made the decision to divest entirely out of fossil fuels.

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The College offers 16 impressive environmental majors, including sustainable agriculture. Students at Unity gain hands-on experience at the College’s McKay Farm, as well as the Unity College Barn. Both are living, working laboratories. The Farm embraces horticulture and soil sciences, while the Barn embraces hands-on education in the animal sciences.

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McKay Farm and Research Station (bottom) is a multi-faceted greenhouse operation that serves as an extension of a 225-acre campus farm.

With a student-faculty ratio of 11:1, students at Unity have the chance to work closely with their instructors. The school has not only impressive training in sustainable agriculture but a strong emphasis in environmental biology as well, which is why it made the list of best agriculture schools.

Michigan State University
Visit www.msuorganicfarm.org, or mail 220 Trwobridge Rd., East Lansing, MI 48824. Call (517) 355-1855.

We chose to include this educational program after it was spoken very highly about by other faculty from other states. The Organic Farmer Training Program is a nine-month, intensive education program that teaches the hands-on, actual operations of running your own small, organic horticulture-based operation.

The program normally has only 16 to 18 students, is a not-for-credit program, and designed to help those who want to enter directly into organic farming but need more experience and education before taking the full financial plunge. The cost is comparable to a year’s tuition at many state colleges, but a number of educators, from other colleges, say that the program can easily pay for itself by helping new farmers avoid a number of common mistakes and pitfalls.

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Do you know of others to add to our list of best agriculture schools?

Doug Ottinger lives in northwest Minnesota with his wife, Connie. They raise chickens, ducks, and geese on their small hobby farm. Doug’s educational background is in agriculture, with an emphasis in poultry and avian genetics.

Originally published in the Nov/Dec 2016 issue of Countryside & Small Stock Journal and regularly vetted for accuracy.

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Summertime Chicken Care 101

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BYP e-edition Summer 2017In case you haven’t heard, we’ve got exciting news for all you Backyard Poultry readers out there! If you have a Web-Only or All-Access Backyard Poultry subscription, you now get six EXTRA e-editions a year, in addition to the six issues you receive every other month. Yup, that’s a new issue every month to learn all about chicken care, breeds, eggs and more!

Our Summer 2017 e-edition is NOW AVAILABLE and covers the ins and outs of summertime chicken care. Join us as we explain how to keep chickens cool and hydrated in the heat, and much more! Plus, you’ll get chicken coop inspiration, fun flock photos, and answers to common flock challenges from our poultry experts. Subscribe today and look forward to four more e-editions this year as well as every issue online with a new flip book style!

 

In this Issue:

• From the EditorBackyard Poultry editor, Pam Freeman, addresses summer fun with your poultry while keeping them cool and relaxed in the heat.

• Flock Photos — Reader-submitted photos. Learn how you can share your poultry photos too!

Something to Crow About  — Readers write in about their experience in raising poultry, join us as we learn more about our poultry readers.

Poultry Talk — Apple cider vinegar uses, molting concerns, and more poultry health questions answered.


Never miss another great issue like this one! Get a wealth of homesteading knowledge delivered to your doorstep, desktop, and even your tablet! Subscribe today to Backyard Poultry, Countryside, Dairy Goat Journal, or sheep!


Summertime Chicken Care 101:

• Help Chickens Keep Their Cool — 7 tips for helping a flock beat the heat.

• It’s Hot Out There — Caring for your poultry in hot weather.

• Backyard Poultry Bookstore

• Ah! There’s Nothing Like a Good Dust Bath in the Afternoon — Dust bathing is important for a flock’s health and wellbeing.

• Keep Biofilm Out of Your Poultry Flock’s Drinking Water — How to eliminate the smelly scum that develops in waterers.

• How to Build a Poultry Water Stand — Dirty, soiled water can cause illness in your birds.

• Homemade Poultry Waterer — Make a waterer using a cat litter jug.

• Permaculture: Gardening With Chickens — Using a chicken tractor to garden with chickens.

• 3 Tips for Gardening with Poultry — Raising chickens and gardening in a shared environment.

• Poultry & Produce — Tips and tricks for keeping poultry in your garden.

• Test Your Soil to Keep Your Poultry Safe — It’s better to know what metals and minerals your flock is digesting.

• Toxins in the Environment — The environment contains plenty of potential poisons.

• 4 Ways Backyard Chickens Help Gardens — Backyard chickens fertilize, reduce weeds, and provide natural pest control.

• Book Excerpt: The Small-Scale Poultry Flock — Excerpt from the book The Small-Scale Poultry Flock by Harvey Ussery.

• Spanish Breeds — The Penedesenca and Empordanesa are perfect for hot climates.

• Coop Inspiration: Rural Colorado Coop — A life-changing move becomes an inspiration for their new chicken coop.

And more!

Backyard Poultry magazine is your best source for information on how to raise healthier, more productive backyard chickens, ducks, turkeys, geese, and even keeping guinea fowl. Whether you live on a farm, call a suburban neighborhood home, or are mastering poultry farming in an urban environment, we have the how-to guides and tips.

Never miss another great issue! Subscribe to Backyard Poultry today and gain access to the Summer 2017 e-edition, and many more to come.

How do you keep your poultry cool in the heat? Let us know in the comments below!

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How to Get Started with Meat Goat Farming

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By Christine Kocourek – I have been involved with goats for more than 20 years, starting with grade dairy goats. My farm currently has more than 40 head of registered fullblood, purebred, and percentage Boer goats. Our herd began with one fullblood buck and two very pregnant grade Boer does. It rapidly grew from three goats to nine when the does kidded. You too can start meat goat farming with your own small herd.

Numerous articles have been written extolling the virtues of using goats as weed-control and their kids as meat, but how does one economically begin to meat goat farming? Boer goats, bred for meat, can be costly with percentage does usually starting at $100 and purebred and fullblood does starting at $400 and climbing from there. Registered dairy does can also be in the $200 range. How does one make sure that every dollar is spent wisely when pursuing meat goat farming?

There are a few things to consider before jumping into meat goat farming for the homestead. Number one being the condition of the land. Goats prefer brush and scrub over pasture. They will chew the bark off their favorite trees until the trees ultimately die. On limited pasture, an animal’s worm load goes up, necessitating medicating the animals on a regular basis. Many wormers have a 60- to 90-day hold, meaning slaughter animals cannot be butchered for 60 to 90 days after worming them. Wormer is not something I would like to have to eat with my meat. However, by making sure the wormload is low on the land the goats are pastured on and by butchering the kids while young, you may circumvent commercial wormers. You can also utilize natural dewormers such as pumpkin seeds or diatomaceous earth. Goats do not thrive well in a feed lot situation, where they live on dirt and are fed grain.

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Hand-in-hand with pasture is fencing. Goats are the escape artists of the domesticated animal world. Heavier breeds of goats like Boers and lactating does who have udders have a tendency to stay where they are put. Kids, however, are another story. We use five-foot tall mesh fencing. Goats’ horns can get caught in this type of fencing, but very rarely do we find a goat with her horns caught. Electric fencing is also used quite successfully and is more economical than mesh fencing. However, the first wire has to be about four inches from the ground and each subsequent wire needs to be spaced so agile goatlings cannot slip their bodies between the cracks. Seven strands of electric fencing evenly spaced work well. Then again, wire fencing, like electric and high tensile, cuts deeply when an animal is caught in it and fights the wire. Chain link fencing is another option. A savvy buyer can often get chain link fence for a deep discount when scavenging it from demolition sites. I recommend placing a want ad in the newspapers of a bigger town.

In the event that the land is not conducive to fencing, goats can be staked out. That said, keep in mind that a goat tied is defenseless to predators, can potentially strangle herself if she jumps over an object and hangs, and still needs the basic requirements of food, shelter, and water. Tying involves a collar, a nylon dog or calf-type collar or a plastic chain collar, not a loop of chain around the animal’s horns. A plastic chain collar, made out of the decorative chain fencing found in hardware stores, is strong enough to hold a tethered goat, but weak enough to break if the animal is in danger. Tied goats should not be left unattended.

Speaking of predators, consider the threats where you live. In our area, our biggest predators are coyotes and neighborhood dogs, the dogs being the greater threat. People may be another threat, especially if you live close to a highly traveled road and have motorists who like to throw objects out their windows. Dogs like to chase and will run a goat down, potentially causing abortion in pregnant does. When a dog catches a goat, it will chew on it and sometimes kill it. We chose to purchase a guardian dog to run with our goats. Our Anatolian Shepherd was born on a goat farm and lived with goats since her birth. She does not bark unless to warn, is generally found lying lazily somewhere in her pasture, and for her size, does not consume massive quantities of food. Of course, a dog does become another mouth to feed and care for.

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Another option might be to run two sets of fencing, the inner pasture containing the goats and the outer pasture ringing in the goats containing donkeys, mules or llamas. Mules and donkeys have a tendency to pursue small furry creatures relentlessly. I owned a horse that stalked and then picked up a full-grown Rottweiler off the ground with his teeth and shook it. I have also heard of several mules that destroyed a band of Pitbulls by stomping and tossing them. Keep predators in mind when you design your fencing arrangements.

Goats require some sort of shelter out of the weather. This may be as simple as a densely woven group of trees they can take shelter underneath and out of the wind, to a calf hut or barn. Whatever shelter is used, good ventilation and cleanliness go far to ensure the health of an animal and her young. We have used straw, old hay, wood shavings and dead leaves (raked by friends in town who are happy to give them to their country friends) as bedding. We rank wood shavings as the best in terms of containing odor and absorbing urine.

With the basics taken care of or at least thought about, it is time to pursue assembling the herd. Think about how much goat meat you intend to eat a year. We prefer to butcher 100-pound goats, which yields about 50 pounds of meat, which we then grind up. Many people prefer young kids, in the 50-60-pound range. One doe can yield one to four, and in rare cases five kids, with twins being the most common. Boer goats cycle year ’round and it is possible to get three kiddings in two years, provided the doe is kept in good shape, which is tough to do on pasture alone. So, if you plan on eating eight kids a year, you will need three or four does.

Now we move on to our search for the ideal homestead meat doe. The ideal doe is generally not a registered animal, although it may be if it is a cull from another herd. Place an ad, watch the classifieds for people getting rid of goats, or contact any large goat dairies in your area. Often a doe that is being culled from a large dairy because it is not producing a lot of milk can be a perfect addition to a meat herd. Some people are happy to give away their goats for free knowing they are going to a good home. Steer clear of older does who have never kidded unless you want to run the risk that they may be sterile. If the animal is older than three years old, has never kidded, and you do not have much experience with goats, you should probably avoid acquiring her. If the doe has kidded before, inquire as to whether she had multiple kids. Twins are great; quads require some thought before purchasing unless you have no problem with helping out the doe with supplemental feeding. Was birthing easy for her? A doe that had one hard kidding, such as breech or tangled kids, won’t necessarily repeat this scenario, but you should be aware of it. Does she have good mothering instincts? This is my primary consideration before purchasing a doe. Does that I have bottle-fed still turned out to be competent mothers and dairy herds bottle feed their kids all the time, but does that are just bad moms are consistently Bad moms and pass that “skill” on to their daughters. If you manage to latch onto a doe that will nurse anyone’s kids, she is a prize. Has she ever had mastitis? Avoid does that have had mastitis before. They tend to be more susceptible to it in the future. Also, studies have shown in cows that calves which were fed milk from cows with mild mastitis have a tendency to freshen with mastitis. Any strange tendencies like freshening with a hard udder, blood in her milk, or attempting to nurse off her own teats? Freshening with a hard or swollen udder may be a result of too much potassium in the feed and could be “curable;” then again, it may be a recurring issue. Blood occurs in the milk when a blood vessel breaks, due to an injury to the udder, and turns the milk pink. Was she easy to breed and did she settle quickly, or did she need to be rebred repeatedly? Does that do not rebreed easily may be cystic. Is she an easy keeper? Does that keep their body weight even while nursing kids are an asset. Less food costs equal less expense raising your meat. How is her udder hung? Is it tightly attached to her frame or does it look like it is hanging on a shoestring? If the goat is to spend its time in brush and foraging, make sure she has a tight udder attachment so the teats do not drag on the ground when her udder is full or pose the risk of getting hung up in brush. I also prefer darkly pigmented udders. Pink udders have a tendency to sunburn and I prefer not to apply sunscreen to my girls every day before they go out to pasture. A sale yard is probably not the best place to pick up a doe unless you know her history or the breeder selling her. Generally, does that show up at auctions show up there for a reason, due to fertility or health problems.

Wherever you get your animals, make sure they are healthy. And even if she appears healthy, isolate your doe from the rest of the herd for at least four weeks. Some people isolate their animals for upwards of six months, but for a small farm this may be impractical. By keeping the doe separated from the herd for a period of time, you can watch for problems like pinkeye, sore mouth, ringworm, and make sure she is free of external and internal parasites through worming before introducing her and any of their little stowaways to your herd.

I have a ragtag bunch of meat does. Our large-boned Nubian/LaMancha goat has a lopsided udder and a propensity for drying up after milking for only four months. However, she is an excellent mother, her doe kids are excellent mothers, she throws triplets for me repeatedly, and I picked her up from a dairy farm for only $75. I am not planning on showing her so the lopsided udder doesn’t matter. I have two Saanen-cross does that I picked up for $35 each. I found them staked out in someone’s yard without shelter. They are extremely easy keepers, excellent mothers, produce copious amounts of milk, and each threw twins for me last year. What a great find! I also picked up two 3/8 Boer does, experienced moms, both bred, from a breeder who had been breeding Boer goats but had decided to downsize. These girls cost me $175 each, but they each had triplets, and then had triplets the following year. They were excellent mothers and very hardy. I consider them a good investment. If you are willing to take a chance, you may be able to pick up orphaned kids a day or two old from goat breeders. I acquired triplet registered Boer kids from just such a breeder. However, I also had a person who didn’t work outside the home take care of them for me as they required 24/7 care and additional support because they were so young and got off to a bad start. This may not be an investment you wish to jump into if you are not experienced with goats.

One last point about meat goat farming: You need access to a buck to breed your does to. For meat goat farming, I recommend Kiko or Boer buck. The higher percentage Boer or Kiko buck you use, the better chance you have of attaining a meaty kid. For instance, if you use a 50 percent Boer buck on your does there is a chance that the kids will take after the dairy side of the buck and not the Boer part. On the plus side, having your own buck makes it easier to tell when the doe is in heat, you can breed whenever you want to, and you do not have to pay someone to have your doe serviced. On the downside, a buck requires special fencing arrangements, is another mouth to feed during non-breeding season, and can be quite stinky at certain times of the year. When deciding whether to purchase your own buck, it is best to ask around at the stockyards or place an ad in the paper to see if anyone lives near you and would be willing to breed their buck to your does. Don’t be offended if someone you ask says no. The buck owner is accepting a level of risk when allowing an outside animal onto his or her farm, the risk being exposure to disease or parasites. I have found my Boer bucks to be very gentle and easy to handle. I also spend the time to make sure they remain so some bucks continually test the master/slave relationship. If you are not assertive, owning a buck may not be for you. Meat bucks can get up to 300-plus pounds. They can be damaging, and we found that siding their shelters in tin prevents them from beating their horns on buildings.

Getting started with meat goat farming and raising your own meat kids can be an economical and enjoyable experience, provided you take the time to properly prepare for goat ownership and selectively choose your does. Knowing what has gone into your meat in terms of chemicals and byproducts provides a certain peace of mind. When people ask us if we have any kids, we answer, “Yes. They’re all four-legged and when they get sassy, we eat them.”

Good luck with meat goat farming!

Originally published in Countryside January/February 2004 and regularly vetted for accuracy.

 

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Hello From Pam Freeman, Countryside Editor

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My experience may be unusual, but when I grew up, I never tasted store-bought jam or tomatoes from a supermarket can. In fact, our pantry just didn’t have many store-bought items. My mom canned everything from tomatoes to green beans to blackberry jam. You name it, she canned it. And we loved it. I especially loved that paraffin wax seal she’d put on everything. It was tough not to touch it with your fingers!

Today techniques have changed but not the reason behind canning and preserving your own produce. In our culture of over-processed and quick food, we want to know where our food comes from. We want to know what we’re eating has the highest nutritional value. We want to know our food doesn’t have unnecessary added chemicals.

Whether you’re new to canning and preserving or a seasoned veteran, you’re sure to find something in this e-edition that fits your needs. Grab some new recipes to expand your repertoire. Learn how to put away pie fillings for yummy desserts throughout the year. Learn how to work with Mother Nature to fill your pantry. Get the secret to the best pickles and more.

Whatever you’re canning this season, I think we can all agree, canning and preserving your own food is worth the effort!

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What is the Best Mulch to Prevent Weeds?

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All Photos By Shelley Dedauw

The best mulch to prevent weeds depends on where the mulch lies, what else you need it to do…and, of course, cost.

What is the most important factor for a successful garden? I asked my friend, Kathy, a master gardener through the local university in Reno around the time I planned my first Nevada garden. I’d grown food under my mother’s tutelage before I turned 18, but this was the first time I depended on the soil to feed my own children.

Her answer was one simple, strong word: “Mulch.”

She didn’t tell me to wait until last frost or to avoid beefsteak tomatoes within our erratic growing seasons. Nor did she tell me to amend my soil yearly, adding copious amounts of organic material. These are also crucial factors. But her knowledge gleaned through the Cooperative Extension and her own experience, told me to cover my dirt.

Mulching is the simple act of covering soil with a protective layer. Materials can be organic or manmade, compostable or semi-permanent. Whether it’s applied to avoid drought, discourage weeds, or keep bulbs warm, the focus is on what lies beneath.

If you need more convincing, the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s Natural Resources Conservation Service says mulching is one of the easiest and most beneficial things you can do for your soil, and the Arbor Day Foundation says mulching is a newly planted tree’s “best friend.”

Mulching Lessons Learned

Even after Kathy’s admonition, it didn’t immediately sink in. I never learned how to lay mulch in Mom’s garden. We pulled weeds both morning and early evening, and then rested when midday sweltered. Perhaps that was Mom’s way of keeping three teenagers busy during summer vacation. Mulching could have reduced that weeding tenfold. And mom didn’t worry about watering; we had a well, weren’t in a drought, and she had trained her kids how to efficiently move a sprinkler.

That year I grew jack-o-lantern pumpkins. Did I mention this was my first year cultivating in Nevada? Jack-o-lanterns are fun to grow, but they don’t have much culinary value. And I can purchase three jack-o-lanterns at the supermarket for how much I paid the water authority to grow a single plant.

Pumpkin leaves spread out full and green within June, fed by an intermittent sprinkler beneath the vines. But July was cruel. Plump and smooth in the morning, the leaves shriveled by midday.

I’m not proud of what I did. I watered more. That’s not the right answer when you garden in a desert. Sure, it plumps those leaves back up super-fast. But then you receive the water bill.

Kathy’s single word returned to me during the second week of wilting-and-watering. Dipping deep into the mower bin, I retrieved grass clippings and laid them on a tarp overnight. In the morning, I packed them tight around the stems. Leaves didn’t shrivel that afternoon and I didn’t turn the hose on until the next day. I could go two to three days between watering sessions instead of running out in panic to feed my failing pumpkins.

Why We Mulch the Way We Do

Moisture retention keeps plants alive, allows you to work elsewhere instead of answering to your garden’s every need, and promotes healthy fruit.

Did you know two factors for tasty heirloom tomatoes are variety and water control? The first is simple: some tomato varieties just taste better than others. But a second and newly discovered factor is how much water the plant receives when fruit forms. Well-irrigated tomato plants result in watery fruit. That’s why hydroponically grown produce is so tasteless. The secret is to give the tomato only the water it needs and not a drop more. But if you’re unsure of the amount, or have a busy lifestyle, “just enough” can easily become “holy cow, my plants are dying!” And compensating by overwatering after a dry stretch causes cracking.

“Just enough” water is made simpler by using drip lines and mulch. Run the drip line along the soil with emitters near each plant. Cover soil and hose with mulch. Then watch your plants for a few days to see how they fare. If they wilt in the heat, it’s more effective to add more mulch than increase water flow.

Summer heat upsets crops like carrots, which like warm tops and cool roots. Winter frost kills bulbs or pushes them out of the ground. A thick layer of organic material regulates soil temperature.

Weed suppression is a third reason to mulch, especially in gardens that get enough moisture. More water means more weeds. And the reason mulching suppresses them follows the basics of photosynthesis: plants need sunlight for growth. Vegetables above the mulch already stretch tall in the light but recently germinated seeds have to fight their way through. The best mulch to prevent weeds is whatever keeps back the light. If the layer is thick enough, weeds don’t stand a chance.

Mulch

Clockwise: A mulched raspberry bush, mulched garlic, and mulched carrots.

The Cheapest Methods

It’s not necessary to purchase expensive mulch unless you have aesthetic requirements. Homeowner associations may require you surround perennials with attractive bark or rocks. Vegetable gardening is different, especially if you’re growing food to save money.

The best mulch to prevent weeds is also the cheapest. Free materials that also benefit soil include compost, leaves, sawdust or wood chips, straw or grass clippings. Search online classifieds or get to know local farmers, offering to buy hay bales that have gotten wet. Collect leaves in the fall and store in plastic garbage bags to use in the next year’s garden. Contact tree care companies about receiving the chipped results of their labors.

Never use herbicide-treated grass clippings. A good friend accepted lawn trimmings from her church and used them as garden mulch. When her vegetables died, she realized the church had applied a weeding/feeding solution to the lawn but had failed to tell her. Though she disposed of the clippings, some remained in her soil. Those herbicides mean she can only plant bladed grasses, such as corn, within those spots for a couple years.

If you’re using straw, look for bales that don’t have seed heads still attached…unless you want to grow wheat. I didn’t mind so much when grains sprouted beside my garlic. I let them ripen then pulled them for the chickens. But the next year’s bales had even more seeds and wheatgrass became the first crop of spring. Also, find organic bales if possible, because some wheat is sprayed with glyphosate herbicide right before harvest so spikelets mature at the same rate. Glyphosate will kill your broadleaf crops.

Those Manmade Mulches

Weed cloth, tomato plastic, and rubber mulch promise weed suppression or increased growth, but do they really work?

I’ve used weed cloth once and was not happy with the results. If I’d spread it beneath perennials, out of walkways, I’d have been happier. But the black fabric heated up my soil in the summer and tore beneath my gardening shoes. I only used it once. But a tear-resistant weed cloth can help northern gardens with shorter growing seasons.

The same with paper weed layers. Advertising claims were promising: it would warm the soil to increase growth and could be tilled in after harvest. But it crackled and tore. Soon the soil heated up too much. Tilling was more of a hassle than just ripping the paper up and throwing it away. I didn’t purchase it again.

Layers made from recycled tires or plastics must be removed at the end of the season, or they can pollute the ground. To some gardeners, this is worth the work. Others would rather be organic with material that can eventually become more soil.

The only plastic mulch I’ve ever used is that red tomato film, which promises increased yield because it reflects the right kind of light onto the plants. And though I’ve used it for five years, I can’t testify whether it truly increases yields. More important factors came into play each year such as soil amendment and blossom drop due to high temperatures. Whether or not it actually works, I do like it for two reasons: It’s easy to unfold, pin into place, and plant the seedlings into holes cut within the film. And it suppresses weeds everywhere except where light shines through the holes. If you do use plastic mulch, poke holes in it so water can pass through.

The Good, the Ugly and the Just Plain Bad

Every mulch material has its flaws. Straw can harbor insects that crawl into the little tubes. Grass clippings may mold and compact. Peat moss may be unsustainable and wood chips may turn sour or attract termites.

Some gardeners use old carpet, leaving it in the garden year after year instead of removing it as it drops fibers. Carpet can disintegrate with frequent watering. Recycled paper may be used as a weed barrier but it’s necessary to use newsprint with soy-based black ink. Decomposing paper can raise soil acidity as well.

A highly debated form of mulch is cocoa shells. This may be the best mulch to prevent weeds if you don’t have pets…but avoid it if you do. Cocoa shells retain a little theobromine, the ingredient in chocolate that’s toxic to pets. Some companies treat their cocoa shells, removing the fat that carries the theobromine, which also diminishes the sweet smell. If you use cocoa mulch, be sure it’s treated so it’s nontoxic.

And though some gardeners will tell you to never use hay because it contains weed seeds, others prefer it because it adds more nutrients to the soil when it decomposes.

In my experience, the best mulch to prevent weeds is whatever improves soil after harvest. This includes compost, straw, and leaves. The worst are those that must be removed because it can be difficult to get every piece. Removing mulch after harvest adds unnecessary labor if compostable material can be used instead.

What you use for mulch depends on where you’re using it, your budget, if you intend to remove it or till it in, and whether you want organic or manmade products. Research the pros and cons to each type before choosing the right one for your garden.

Lazy Desert Mulching

After reading article after article and trying product after product, I learned to keep it simple. I work hard on my garden to attain maximum yield, but I don’t have time to waste. I don’t need to create more work.

Seeds sown into bare ground grow a couple inches before they meet the mulch. Grass clippings land around tiny carrots while leaves pack against tall, slender onion greens. Transplants sink into the soil and, within minutes, straw packs against the stems. Potatoes grow six inches, are hilled up and grow again. When I cannot hill any more, I apply straw to reduce watering and allow even more growth. And deep mulch gardening doesn’t end there. When summer heat reaches triple digits, soaker hoses point downward and more straw lays atop to keep every precious drop where it belongs.

By harvest, I’m exhausted. I’ve spent hours each day cultivating, weeding, watering and preserving the vegetables. With sagging shoulders, I scan the tired and frost-damaged plot while chickens pace behind me, eager to reach fallen tomatoes. Autumn cleanup is simple: Remove the plants chickens can’t eat. And open the gate. Poultry claws dig deep into that organic layer, separating it so my hens can find pests hoping to overwinter.

Then cold weather hits. I’m not worried. I used to be embarrassed by my lazy cleanup techniques until I read an article about how keeping a cover is crucial for soil health. The entire land gets a rest.

And in the spring, the shovel digs deep, mixing chicken droppings with decomposed leaves, straw and grass. It all rests beneath the surface to feed beneficial microbes and create nitrogen for the next round of crops.

What have you found to be the best mulch to prevent weeds? Let us know in the comments section.

Originally published in Countryside July/August 2016 and regularly vetted for accuracy.

The post What is the Best Mulch to Prevent Weeds? appeared first on Countryside Network.

From Canning Tomatoes to Pickling Beets, Savor Your Homegrown Harvest!

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Our Summer 2017 e-edition is now available! Learn how to can, store, and preserve the homestead harvest you have worked so hard to grow — from canning tomatoes to pickling beats, this issue has all the tips you need.

If you have a Web-Only or All-Access Countryside subscription, you now get six EXTRA e-editions a year, in addition to the six issues you receive every other month in the mail and/or online. Our Summer 2017 e-edition is one of those EXTRAS!

In our Summer 2017 e-edition, get the secret to good pickles; learn all about canning tomatoes; find tips for making scrumptious sauces, jams, and jellies; learn how to hunt, gather, and forage for your next meal, and much more! Subscribe today and look forward to many more convenient and informative e-editions as well as every issue online with a new flip book style. That’s 12 issues a year!

CYS e-edition Summer 17

Take a look at some tips and tricks for making the most of your harvest inside our Summer 2017 e-edition:

+ I Am Countryside — Reader-submitted photos showing different aspects of what homesteading means.

Country Conversation & Feedback — Letters from Countryside readers.

Feature Stories

Beat the Heat with These Super Cool Foods — Nutritionist offers insight on summer heat waves.

Store Salad Greens for Later Use – An easy way to preserve your garden greens.

Salad Greens

Homemade Pickled Beets — It’s like eating candy from a jar. Yum!

Beyond Kraut & Kimchi — Gail Damerow reviews Fermented Vegetables by Kirsten and Christopher Shockey.

Delicious Eggplant Recipes and More — Recipes that make good use of your homegrown harvest.

Eggplant

The Secret to Good Pickles — How to make dill pickles and relishes. Plus, what’s the secret to good pickles? Find out!

There’s No End to Zucchini Recipes! — This versatile veggie does it all — from cakes to casseroles.

A Guide to Preserving Tomatoes — Enjoy the taste of vine-ripened tomatoes all year long. Learn all about canning tomatoes from an experienced homesteader.

In a Jam? — Jam makes a great gift, so turn your homegrown fruit into a tasty treat your friends and neighbors will love.

Canned Apple Pie Filling — This works well with peaches, too! Anyone for pie?

Crabapples — Crabapples are often a forgotten fruit, but there are tons of great (and delicious!) uses of the sour crabapple.

crabapple Jelly

Storing Your Harvest — A successful gardening season means you’ll probably drown in produce. Learn how to properly store it to make it last.

Fill Your Pantry with Help From Mother Nature — Save money on your food bill by learning to hunt, fish, and gather.

Countryside Bookstore

JOIN US ON OUR SOCIAL CHANNELS

Connect and share ideas with Countrysiders like you and watch for new stories on our social channels!

Facebook.com/iamcountryside
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Include #iamcountryside for a chance to have your pics shared on our feed.

Countryside and Small Stock Journal is more than a homesteading magazine, it’s a network where people who are homesteading today share a variety of experiences and ideas about simple homesteading. In every issue, you’ll learn about practical solutions for growing and preserving your own food, raising chickens and small livestock, and managing a thriving homestead in a rural or urban setting.

Never miss another great issue with practical tips on homesteading today! Subscribe to Countryside and Small Stock Journal today.

The post From Canning Tomatoes to Pickling Beets, Savor Your Homegrown Harvest! appeared first on Countryside Network.

What is Your Livestock Guardian Dog’s Bark Trying to Tell You?

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Our July/August 2017 issue of sheep! is NOW AVAILABLE, featuring stories that answer questions like, what is your livestock guardian dog’s bark trying to tell you? Learn why this magazine is the leading source for sheep information for the modern flockmaster seeking to raise sheep for profit or personal use.

Some of our readers have two or three wool sheep that they shear so they can spin the wool and use it themselves. Others own large commercial flocks whose meat and milk they sell all over the world. And still others are somewhere in between. The one thing they have in common is that they all need help solving the inevitable problems that arise when sheep farming. And so we give it to them critical sheep information every issue! You’ll quickly discover that sheep! makes your life better no matter what your interests are, no matter how many sheep you own, and no matter how long you’ve been raising them.

In this issue of sheep!:

Livestock Guardian Dogs & Barking, Understanding What Your LGD is Telling You by Brenda M. Negri
“When a dog barks it is trying to do one of five things: communicate; guard; warn; feeling happy or sad or lonely; frustrated, fearful, or stressed. Learning to logically distinguish those barks is an important part of being a good livestock guardian dog owner and can help you help your livestock guardian dog do a better job. One of the common complaints about livestock guardian dogs has to do with what their owner calls “excessive barking.”.  Novice and first-time LGD owners sometimes claim their LGDs bark excessively. Usually it isn’t that the barking is necessarily excessive, but more of a problem of the owner’s inability to understand the reason behind the barking.  That’s a problem that can be cured with education of the owner.”


Sheep are stupendous! sheep! is the leading source for the sheep information you need to keep your flock healthy and profitable. Subscribe Now!


Shetland Wool’s “Extra Fine” Legacy, Protected by Official Trademark By Tim King
Although wool quality is an important part of evaluating a proper Shetland Sheep, other aspects such as general character and appearance—head, back, and the tail—are also important elements of the 1927 Breed Standard.

History Rewrites Future, Genetic Study to Offer Useful Future Traits By Alan Harman
The history of sheep breeding and trading along China’s legendary Silk Road is being rewritten using advanced genetic sequencing technology.

Unusual Triplets, An Unassisted, Prolonged (5-Day) Lambing By Laurie Ball-Gisch
Lambing can be an exciting, and nerve-racking experience. Learn about a five-day lambing adventure.

Springrock Jacobs Earn Their Keep By Tim King
Jacob sheep have horns that aren’t just spectacular, they’re a valuable commodity to turn into many useful and in-demand products. A Tennessee farm finds a product in every piece of the useful Jacob breed. Learn how they utilize everything from the wool to the horns.

More Sheep Farming Information in the July/August 2017 issue of sheep!:

DEPARTMENTS

• Scribblings: Mob Grazing, Right for You?
• sheep! Photo Contest
• Meeting of Minds
“The Narrative” Affects Public’s Take On Sheep & Predators
Animal & Human Remorse
Proud New Sheep Breeds Record Keeping Service
Pipestone’s “Sheep For Profit” School, July 5 to 8, 2017
Summer a Bummer?  Four Simple Steps Help Lambs Beat the Heat
Rams That Don’t Butt
Before You Buy Or Build A Fence
New NSIP Certification Program
Federal or State Lands, Part 5
Old-Time Summertime Homemade Wormer Recipes
Hair Sheep Reports
• Wool Gatherings
• 
Sheep May Safely Graze: Red Foxes, General Characteristics & Call-to-Shoot Instructions
Price Reports
• 
sheep! Bookstore
Shearing Notes
• Book Review: Don Shymaker’s Journals of a Coyotero
• Poor Will’s sheep! Almanack
• 
News Bleat
~ Flavor Study To Oust Growers Where Aussies Send Lamb
~ Big Dorper Investments In Russia
~ Brits’ “Brief” Procedure To Detect Soil Health
~ Consumers Demand:  “Fix Gamy Lamb;” Aussies Acting On It
~ Farm Parents: Be More Careful!
~ Get Paid To Graze Others’ Land
~ How Machines Analyze Sheep Faces To Detect Pain
~ Stolen Sheep’s Hefting Instinct Brings Them Home
~ USDA’s Only Sheep Research Station Again Faces Closure
~ Portable Machine Shortens Wool Analysis Time
sheep! Breeders & Classifieds

ON THE COVER:
Photo taken by Marlene Bell, of Ewephoric! Texas Horned Dorsets in Big Sandy, Texas.

sheep! magazine delivers thoughtful feature articles and the latest sheep information to make every shepherd more knowledgeable and better able to raise healthy, productive flocks for profit and satisfaction.

Never miss another great issue filled with actionable sheep information for today’s flockmaster. With just a few issues of sheep!, you’ll be well on your way to mastering how to raise sheep.

Subscribe to sheep! magazine today.

The post What is Your Livestock Guardian Dog’s Bark Trying to Tell You? appeared first on Countryside Network.

Frittatas 101 – Start Basic Then Make it Fancy

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When I learned to make frittatas, I knew I had a dish simple enough for a family supper yet fancy enough for entertaining.

Frittata, which translates to “fried” in Italian, is an egg-based classic dish. Yes, eggs are the main ingredient in any basic frittata recipe, and that’s good news for us who have a daily supply of healthful, fresh eggs. Think of a basic frittata as a blank canvas. Even with just eggs and seasonal herbs, it’s a winner. Take my best frittata recipe, for example. All it takes are eggs, cheese, and fresh herbs to make this delicious savory meal in a pan. Frittatas take just minutes to make, a boon for busy folks.

Along with my best frittata recipe, I’m sharing two more. One is a spinach and bacon frittata suitable for Paleo guidelines. The other has a Southwestern flair and uses fresh or frozen corn.

Best Eggs for Frittatas

I use eggs from my chickens, but I have used Pekin duck eggs in place of chicken eggs. Since Pekin duck eggs are larger, for every two chicken eggs called for, use one duck egg.

Folding Yolks into Whites

If a recipe calls for beaten egg whites, beat until stiff but not dry, then pour the yolks over the beaten whites and fold them in with a spatula.

best-frittata-recipe

Yolks over whipped whites

Filling Possibilities

Herbs, meat, greens, cheese, vegetables, potatoes or pasta. Check to see what’s leftover in the refrigerator!

Use the Right Pan

Although you can use any ovenproof pan, a nonstick ovenproof omelet pan with sloping sides or my trusty well-seasoned cast iron skillet is my preference. For these recipes, a 10-inch pan works well.

best-frittata-recipe

Measure top of the skillet for accurate dimension. This is a 10-inch skillet.

Don’t Overbake

Frittatas typically don’t get brown on the top since they’re in the oven such a short time. Overbaking results in a spongy texture. If you insist on a golden brown top, run the almost cooked frittata under the broiler for a few minutes.

My Best Frittata Recipe: Frittata with Tarragon, Parsley, and Onion Chives

This recipe is lovely for brunch, lunch, or light supper.

Ingredients

  • 4 large eggs
  • Salt and pepper to taste
  • 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 8 oz. shredded Gruyere, white cheddar or Fontina cheese
  • Romano for sprinkling on top
  • 2 tablespoons each: fresh tarragon, onion chives, and parsley plus extra for garnish

Instructions

  1. Preheat oven to 375°F.
  2. Separate eggs. Whisk yolks with a little salt and pepper, until thick and fairly light.
  3. Beat whites with a dash of salt until stiff but not dry.
  4. Pour yolks over whites and gently fold them into whites.
  5. Melt butter in a 10-inch nonstick ovenproof skillet and heat just until starting to foam but not brown. Pour egg mixture into skillet, spread evenly and smooth top.
  6. Cover pan with a lid whose underside has been sprayed to prevent sticking. (You can also use sprayed foil).
  7. Cook over low heat for about five minutes. Remove cover and sprinkle omelet with both cheeses and herbs.
  8. Put the pan in oven until top is set, about 10 minutes.
  9. Remove from oven, using mitt since the handle is hot.
  10. Use a spatula to loosen edges and bottom.
  11. Place on a plate, sprinkle with Romano and extra herbs. Cut into wedges to serve.

Change It Up

If you don’t have the herbs on hand from my best frittata recipe, you can certainly substitute with what you have on hand. Substitute parsley, basil, and garlic chives for the tarragon, parsley, and onion chives.

best-frittata-recipe

Parsley, basil, and garlic chives.

Paleo Chard and Bacon Frittata

My daughter-in-law feeds her family a modified Paleo diet, rich in protein. She would like this recipe. Leafy greens fit the Paleo profile, too, so I can use my garden chard.

Ingredients

  • 1/2 pound pork or turkey bacon, cut into small pieces
  • 1/2 cup leeks or onions, diced or to taste
  • 1 clove garlic, minced
  • 2-3 cups Swiss chard chopped
  • 5-6 large eggs, beaten or whisked until light and somewhat fluffy
  • Freshly ground black pepper to taste
  • Tomatoes for garnish

Instructions

  1. Preheat oven to 375°F.
  2. Cook bacon over medium heat in a 10-inch nonstick, ovenproof omelet pan. Remove and leave the drippings in the skillet. Put leeks in skillet and when they start to get soft, add garlic and chard. Cook until chard wilts. Add the bacon back into the pan and mix. Pour in the eggs and cook just until the eggs start to set around the edges.
  3. Place in the oven and bake for 8-10 minutes or until middle is set. Remove from oven, using mitt since the handle is hot.
  4. Loosen edges and bottom with a spatula, and turn over upside down onto a plate.
  5. Cut into wedges to serve.

Tips from Rita’s Kitchen

  • Serve shredded cheddar cheese on the side for those who like it. That addition makes it a modified Paleo dish.
  • Substitute spinach for the chard.
  • Use bottom part of leeks only. Leaves are too tough to eat but are flavorful additions to stocks.
  • Wash leeks after dicing. It’s easier that way!
best-frittata-recipe

Diced leeks after washing

 

best-frittata-recipe

Bacon and chard frittata

Tex-Mex Frittata with Corn and Bell Pepper

One of my students shared this recipe with me. “My family likes anything Southwestern, and it’s a kid-friendly dish, too,” she told me. Since corn is still in season, this is a must have on our table. I’ve adapted her recipe only slightly.

Ingredients

  • 6 large eggs
  • 1/4 cup whole milk
  • Salt and a dash of cayenne pepper
  • Olive oil
  • 3/4 cup onion, diced
  • 1 small red, orange or yellow bell pepper, diced
  • 1 cup corn, fresh from cob or frozen, thawed
  • 8 oz. Mexican blend shredded cheese

Garnishes: Your Choice!

  • Salsa
  • Avocado
  • Sour cream
  • Cilantro
  • Diced tomatoes

Instructions

  1. Preheat oven to 375°F.
  2. Beat or whisk eggs, milk, salt and cayenne pepper until light and somewhat fluffy.
  3. Film the bottom of a 10-inch ovenproof nonstick skillet with olive oil over medium heat. Add onions, peppers, and corn. Cook until tender. Pour in eggs, stir to mix and cook until edges start to set. Remove from heat and sprinkle with cheese.
  4. Place in the oven and bake 10 minutes or until middle is set.
  5. Remove from oven, using mitt since the handle is hot.
  6. Loosen edges and bottom with a spatula, and place onto a plate.
  7. Cut into wedges to serve. Pass sides.

Cut Corn From The Cob Easily

Put corn in the center of an angel food pan for easy cutting from the cob. No flyaway kernels!

best-frittata-recipe

An easy way to remove corn from the cob.

Change It Up

Substitute sauteed zucchini and tomatoes for the bell pepper and corn. Instead of Mexican blend cheese, use Italian blend cheese. For garnish, serve warm marinara sauce on the side.

best-frittata-recipe

Zucchini, tomatoes, and onions.

 

FRITTATAS, OMELETS AND CRUSTLESS QUICHES: WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE?
Frittata Cooking starts on top of the stove and finishes in the oven.
Omelet Cooked entirely on top of the stove; eggs folded around filling.
Crustless Quiche Cooked in the oven. (Some fillings may be cooked on top of the stove and then added to egg mixture.)
Eggs and filling either mixed together or poured in layers in the pan.

 

The post Frittatas 101 – Start Basic Then Make it Fancy appeared first on Countryside Network.

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